Guide to chenin blanc – a wine that’s flown under the radar far too long

You know those so-bad-they’re-good infomercials where the colour drops to black and white, and someone is struggling way too hard with a basic task? Yeah, well, that’s all of us picking a wine at some point – glazed expression, mind blank, staring a hole in the Dan Murphy’s fridge. But hold on, here comes the colour image again and the voiceover announcing, “What about chenin blanc?”

Chenin blanc (pronounced shen-nin blonk) isn’t quite up there with white wine headline-grabbers like chardonnay, sauvignon blanc or pinot gris, but it has a history, versatility and genuine deliciousness that should put it well and truly on your shopping list. Like another underappreciated white variety we recently covered, albariño, chenin blanc isn’t exactly obscure, but we think everyone could do with a quick refresh on this extraordinary white wine.

Chenin blanc is the wine equivalent of those people who can wear anything and make it look good – it shifts in styles, flavours and forms like few others, remaining picture-perfect the whole time. The grape likely originated in France’s Loire Valley (specifically, it seems, the Anjou region) and has since spread across the globe, popping up with different flavours and styles every time.

Here’s what we mean:

• Dry: The classic form of chenin blanc is a dry (that is, not sweet) and light wine with a real zing of acidity that makes it a bit of a Prince Charming when seafood is around. Flavours like quince, pear and florals often pop up in dry chenin. With a bit of time spent ageing in oak, dry chenin blanc can become velvety and full-bodied – a little like chardonnay.

• Sweet: Chenin isn’t afraid of showing off its sweet side, ranging from off-dry (just a little bit sweet) to full-on dessert styles. Think flavours like candied pear, crème brûlée and toffee apple, with a rich texture and balance provided by chenin’s classic acidity.

• Sparkling: Everything that makes chenin a great table wine – its bold flavours, high acidity and ability to effortlessly switch between dry and sweet – translates into its sparkling form. They make a punchy and bright alternative to those classic pinot noir chardonnay sparkling wines at your next big do. 

• Age: It’s not a style, as such, but it’s worth noting that chenin blanc ages like the Queen Mother, going on and on forever. With its high acidity, chenin (particularly styles with high sugar content) can easily go for 50 years or more, only getting better with age.

Australia and South Africa: The new school

In Australia, Western Australia has claims to being the home state of chenin blanc, with about half of all Aussie chenin coming from Margaret River and Swan Valley. Warmer regions like Swan Valley lend some moreish tropical fruit notes like passionfruit and pineapple (backed with the typical acidity, of course), often with a slight sweetness. Margaret River also produces some excellent sparkling chenin, known for being extremely fresh, citrusy and perfect with a pre-dinner cheese plate.

Here’s a surprising fact: over 18% of all the grapevines planted in South Africa are chenin blanc. Since the variety arrived in the 19th century, South Africans have fallen in love with it in a big way (they even sometimes call the grape ‘steen’ over there) and regions like Swartland, Stellenbosch and Paarl are chock full of it, making chenin the signature South African wine. Warm days and cool nights give South African chenin its typical rich texture and floral aromas, though you’ll find a mix of dry and sweet styles across the country, depending on the winemaker.

Below, we round up five of our current faves from here and South Africa to start you on your chenin discovery.