Vine Guide: Canberra edition
Canberra’s changed since you visited on grade six camp. Get the down-low on this cool-climate region’s stellar wineries, dynamic bar scene and attractions that aren’t Questacon.
Think Canberra’s all about politics and museums? Chances are you haven’t been back since your primary school’s sixth-grade excursion. Things have changed here, especially when it comes to the delicious side of things – the nation’s capital is now home to incredible produce, drawcard venues and some of Australia’s most exciting cool-climate wines. The Canberra District, as this wine region is officially known, has around 35 cellar doors offering enticing experiences, and almost 150 vineyards producing premium wines across so many varieties and styles. If it’s been a while between Canberra visits, you’re in for a treat. We’ve pulled together a guide to all the best things to do in Canberra, including wineries, restaurants and fun activities.
First, some history. The first vines were planted here way back in the 1840s, but despite the early start, the local wine industry came to a halt for a long time before being re-established in the 1970s. Since then, this region has well and truly made up for lost time – not to mention gained countless big wins and devoted fans along the way. With a diversity of landscapes, soils, conditions and altitudes (its vineyards stretch right up to more than 800m above sea level), it’s no surprise that a wide range of grape varieties thrives across this region. Expect to find everything from riesling, chardonnay and grüner veltliner in the whites, to shiraz, tempranillo and pinot noir in the reds. But that still doesn’t scratch the surface.
While Canberra District does cover some ground – it’s made up of the three distinct subregions of Murrumbateman, Hall, and Bungendore/Lake George – it’s all easily accessible. It can work well to make Canberra your home base, and not just because this city demands an exploration in its own right. Whether you love elegant wines, get excited by quality produce prepared with love, or you’re simply chasing your next wine adventure, it’s time to give Canberra a closer look.
1. Clonakilla
If you’re into benchmark producers, you can’t miss Clonakilla (pictured top and left). A 40-minute drive from Canberra, this celebrated Murrumbateman winery is helmed by second-generation vigneron Tim Kirk. In addition to their coveted Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, the winery also produces straight shiraz – the variety is truly in its happy place here – as well as sauvignon blanc semillon blends, riesling and viognier, among others. It’s also known as a breeding ground for some of the best wine people in the country (we’re looking at you, Ravensworth). Book ahead for a seated tasting and prepare to be blown away by these world-class wines. You’ll understand first-hand how this family winery is simply going about their business and doing great things without any of the fanfare. Iconic.
2. Mount Majura
Mount Majura is an essential stop if you get excited by quality alternative varieties. Just a 15-minute drive from Canberra, here you’ll find a wide-reaching collection of smart wines, from pinot gris to their acclaimed tempranillo, plus others such as graciano, mondeuse and touriga. You can choose between two tastings at their cellar door – the Seated Tasting lines up more than 10 wines, while the Premium Tasting lets you try some of their most exclusive releases. You can also take a self-guided gumboot tour through their vines and, if it all makes you want to stay a while, there are two bell tents and a tiny home to book into so you can enjoy this striking setting for longer.
3. Lark Hill
If you’re touring the region over a weekend, be sure to hit up family winery Lark Hill (pictured right) around lunchtime – their recently rejuvenated restaurant (Agostinis) serves Italian-leaning dishes that work brilliantly alongside their biodynamic wines. Established in 1978, Lark Hill is one of the oldest wineries in the Canberra District, as well as being one of the coldest; with an elevation of 860m, their vines are no strangers to snow. These conditions and their biodynamic approach (2008 marked their first official biodynamic vintage) help to enhance the fruit purity across their range. You can experience this quality through one of their tasting flights, which are designed for people to settle in and take their time. Dogs on leads are welcome here, too, keeping the whole car-load happy.
4. Contentious Character
For something different, Contentious Character puts a cool, contemporary spin on Canberra’s wine scene. Choose from curated wine flights paired with small bites, a private tasting with the winemaker, or dip into the property’s history by tasting wines made by the former owners, Lambert Vineyards. They also offer picnic hampers (and private spots to enjoy them), cheesemaking workshops, and even yoga and brunch. This team maximises their super-high altitude and conditions across a wine range that covers the likes of verdelho, riesling and pinot gris, cabernet, pinot noir, shiraz and more. Our hot tip? Allow for a meal at their buzzy restaurant, which keeps all comers happy with everything from kingfish carpaccio to pizza. It all works a treat with their vibrant wines.
5. Lerida Estate
This region isn’t short on stunning views, but Lerida Estate in Lake George – a 40-minute drive north of Canberra – enjoys a picture-perfect outlook. The cafe here is ideal for a quick snack following a tasting, but chances are you’ll be tempted to take a seat, in which case you might just end up lingering over a three-course meal. The wines, however, are just as worthy of your time. Lerida Estate has a focus on pinot noir, but they also make standout shiraz and cabernet franc, as well as chardonnay, pinot gris and viognier, among others. If words like ‘wild yeast’ and ‘minimal intervention’ make your heart soar, stop by to taste them for yourself.
Come here to hang out, chat to the savvy team, and try a few new-wave wines over some flavourful snacks, and you might just leave this bar-cum-bottle-shop with your new favourite wine tucked under your arm.
This underground hidden gem in Acton (pictured above right) is worth hunting down for its killer snacks and excellent cocktails. It’s a brilliant reflection of the increasingly dynamic hospo scene in Canberra.
If meat is your thing, head to Terra, where protein is the real star of the show (dish pictured above left). The wood-fired focus here brings charry deliciousness to their specialty dishes, while a considered drinks selection brings it all home.
For great snacks and drinks smack bang in the middle of town, Corella is a top option. It’s a venue that oozes cool from every corner, all while heroing Aussie ingredients in every cocktail and dish. Just know that you’ll need to try a couple.
If you have one too many cheese plates on your getaway, make Bar Beirut a priority destination for a big hit of flavour. This team puts the same level of care into their drinks (with fabulous non-alcoholic options to boot) as they do in their delish Lebanese food. Their moreish share dishes are guaranteed to refresh fatigued palates after all those winery tastings.
If you need a break from winery touring, consider getting your hands dirty at a workshop run by the Canberra Glassworks team in the Kingston Power House. You could learn how to blow glass, fuse it in the kiln, sculpt it with flame and so much more. If you can't squeeze in a class, the shop is still well worth a visit (pictured above left).
For anyone who prefers to play bartender, head to this distillery for a Gin & Tonic Class. You might assume it’s easy to combine these two ingredients in a glass, but this session will teach you the fine art of building the perfect G&T, all while you sample six of the distillery’s gins and graze on a platter of local goods.
If all that sounds like too much effort, you may prefer to bunker down at top spa Adytum (pictured above right), where you can choose between massages, facials and a soak in the Turkish bath. Wine touring is hard work, after all.
Much like the calibre of bars and restaurants in this town, good coffee is never far from reach. Among our favourites is The Cupping Room (pictured right), where the team takes its caffeine very seriously. Run by the folks behind Ona Coffee, they always have an exceptional array of house blends and single origin beans for coffee-hunters to explore – complete with tasting notes that would rival some of the nearby wineries. And don’t overlook their brunch menu and cakes. Not when you can choose from the likes of a quesadilla stack and chorizo skillet, or sticky date with lime butterscotch and pretty plate of French toast, which makes an excellent way to legitimise ice cream for breakfast.
