NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Beirut

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 15 Nov 2022

By
Alexandra Carlton


Inside Lebanese restaurant Bar Beirut in Canberra

Lebanese flavours take centre stage at this vibrant CBD bar in the winning Middle Eastern eats and the tight-yet-mighty wine list, backed up by globetrotting cocktails.

Serving up cocktails at Bar Beirut
Why you goOn paper, you probably want to go to Bar Beirut because the concept sounds like a party no-brainer – share-plates of smoky charred chicken, curled loops of grilled octopus on thick daubs of toum garlic sauce, generous heaps of baba ghanoush and hummus with Lebanese bread, all chased with cocktails? Sold. But there’s much more to this 65-seater – with an extra 26 seats outside – than the obvious good-time ingredients. First, there’s the service: the owners, husband and wife Soumi and Chantelle Tannous, are the sort of nothing-is-too-much-trouble hosts who elevate a venue from hospitable to properly welcoming (this reviewer turned up on a frantic Friday night with complete certainty she’d made a booking when, in fact, she had not, and Soumi magicked up a couple of bar-stool spots without cracking a sweat). Then there’s the drinks. Not only is this a great place to learn about Lebanese wine, but – maybe surprisingly – there’s also a Japanese tilt, with a great range of sakes, plus a bunch of cocktails that take their cues from unexpected corners of the planet. There’s a lot going on when you peek under the hood here.
What drink to order

The short but mighty list of Lebanese reds are all luscious and full-bodied – rich cab savs and blends that are made for meats. For something lighter, the Petit Couvent Rosé – made from an indigenous Lebanese grape, tfeifihé, and tempranillo – is refreshing and balanced, but has a sturdy, faintly bitter kick that gives it real personality. 

And then to the cocktails. The bar staff take their work seriously – you can ask them to make a Martini the way the Lord intended it, and without hesitation they’ll present you with an unflinching Dirty Gin Martini. But on paper, the list gets pretty creative: the Beirut Express, for instance, is a twist on a Margarita with tequila, green Chartreuse and a smoked chilli-salt rim, while the Archie Visits Japan is a blend of Archie Rose rye whiskey, sake and house-made rosewater. Among the sakes are several junmai pure-rice sakes and a range of flavoured options such as pear and yuzu, while the spirits selection includes tequilas and whiskies, as well as arak.

No one’s taking any shortcuts on the non-alc list either, with no fewer than 13 fully realised alcohol-free drinks made from Lyre’s, including a riff on a Manhattan, a Mojito and a Salted Caramel Espresso Martini.

The spirits selection at Bar Beirut in Canberra
Some of the vibrant food on offer at Bar Beirut
What to pair it withChef Struan Preston hails from Scotland originally, but he’s worked all over the world and slips easily into the flavours of the Middle East. The grilled octopus is butter-tender on its bed of toum garlic sauce, and big wedges of charcoal-charred chicken – also sitting on toum, guaranteeing no one in the party goes home without a little bit of garlic breath – is strong, too. Vegetarians are well served with the typical array of Lebanese dips, but there are also excellent cheese rakakat, a golden Lebanese pastry roll filled with cheese and served with chilli mayo, hazelnut falafel and a whole roasted eggplant loaded with mushrooms, pomegranate and zhoug, the spicy green coriander sauce.
Regular’s tipSoumi is as accommodating as a host can possibly be but, realistically, a man can only do so much when it comes to walk-ins. Your best bet for snagging a table on the street is probably Tuesdays to Thursdays, but bookings really are recommended.
Don’t leave withoutChecking out the subtle and sympathetic design details, particularly the urn and archway reliefs pressed into the walls. They’re the work of designer Kelly Ross, who took inspiration from the urban architecture of Beirut and Moroccan cooking utensils.
A busy scene inside Bar Beirut in Canberra
Ruinart Champagne with oysters
Make it fancyCelebrating or just feel like plucking the cork out of something a bit silly? There are a couple of bring-out-the-big-guns Champagnes on the list, including a few vintage Dom Pérignons and a top-shelf Krug.
Who to takeWednesday and Thursday nights feature belly dancing, which is great for groups, leaving Tuesdays as the best bet for dates or other circumstances when you’d like a little more conversation and a little less action.