Vine Guide: Bellarine Peninsula edition
There are so many reasons to explore the Bellarine Peninsula wine region – and you’re going to need your stretchy pants.
Mornington shmornington – we adore it, but there’s another peninsula rightfully stealing some of the spotlight. Mornington’s lesser-known western sibling, the Bellarine Peninsula, might not be the first Victorian wine region that springs to mind, but that’s all part of its charm. Right near Geelong, this under-the-radar coastal spot is an easy 90-minute drive from Melbourne, or even better, ditch the car and take the one-hour ferry from the CBD over to Portarlington. Cruising across Port Phillip Bay is a spectacular way to kick off a day trip to this stunning place, but we’re pretty sure you’ll want to stay longer.
This is a region full of hotspot destinations, like Queenscliff, Ocean Grove, Swan Bay, Drysdale, St Leonards and Barwon Heads. Some ‘90s babies might even recognise Barwon as the breathtaking backdrop to ABC’s SeaChange (#SigridThornton4eva). These days, the Bellarine is still just as gorgeous, but it now comes with a well-deserved rep as a sanctuary for serious foodies and wine lovers.
With its sweeping bay views, surrounding vines and laidback cellar doors, the Bellarine sits in its own bucolic bubble. Completing this picture is the region’s super-fresh produce and crowd-pleasing wines, spanning many styles, from sparkling, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay to pinot noir, shiraz and so much more. Whether you base yourself in one of the region’s pretty coastal pockets, quaint towns, or the burgeoning hub of Geelong (it is Victoria’s second-largest city after all), you’re in for a very good time. Bring a bunch of friends – and your appetite – and steal a few tips from our rundown below.
There are few awards that Oakdene Vineyards hasn’t won for its Jessica Sauvignon Blanc, but that’s far from their only achievement. This Wallington family winery takes advantage of the region’s cool maritime climate for their smart range of wines, and the cellar door includes a restaurant and cafe, plus there’s accommodation for those who really want to settle in. Seated tasting flights in the Upside Down House (it’ll make sense when you get there) allow you to pick five wines to try, and you can follow that with Asian-inspired bites at Manor Suite Wine Bar or pub-style favourites at Mr Grubb @ Oakdene.
2. Jack Rabbit Vineyard
Just a 15-minute drive away is Jack Rabbit Vineyard (also pictured top), which has some of the best views of the bay – weddings are a big thing here. To explore their wines, you can choose between tastings of five reds or whites, or a mix of both. The range includes pinot, merlot and shiraz, as well as pinot grigio, chardonnay, a blanc de blancs and even an intriguing spritzy Frizzante. Brunch or lunch is always a good idea at House of Jack Rabbit cafe, or you can go all out with the full dining experience at award-winning Jack Rabbit Restaurant, where the region’s best produce is on show.
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3. Terindah Estate
Terindah Estate is a two-minute walk from Jack Rabbit – an easy stroll from the glamping tents this family winery offers outside of winter. While they’re known for their traditional wine styles – think chardonnay, pinot noir and sparkling – they also have a rich-fruited zinfandel, which is well worth a closer look. If hunger strikes, The Shed restaurant, complete with its floor-to-ceiling windows, is a picture-perfect spot to linger, or you could grab a casual bite at the Deck Lounge, which is another primo place to enjoy that view. And you can’t miss the Tram Bar – it’s a fully refurbished old-school tram.
4. Scotchmans Hill
Take the five-minute drive from both Terindah and Jack Rabbit, and you’ll find Scotchmans Hill, which turns out premium cool-climate classics. There are seven labels across the range, including the pinnacle Scotchmans Hill wines and easy-drinking Swan Bay collection. Pinot and chardonnay are among the flagships, along with shiraz – or syrah, as they call it to fit their cool-climate, lightly spiced style. This winery is another solid choice for the complete wine-and-dine experience, with tastings of current and back-vintage releases, cheese and charcuterie plates in the Wine Terrace, or wine-matched dining in the restaurant – all with those striking bay views as the backdrop.
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5. Flying Brick Cider Co.
If you need a break from all that wine, revive your palate at Flying Brick Cider Co. Sure, it might be part of Yes Said the Seal Winery (and those wines also demand your attention – the shiraz is a highlight), but a tasting paddle of Flying Brick’s ciders is deliciously refreshing. Be warned, though, that a pitstop here can easily turn into a longer stay, with a number of dining options, including a food truck that makes hanging out on the sprawling lawns even more appealing. They even offer a weekday High Cheese – like High Tea, but far more delicious.
6. Little Creatures Brewing
While you’re in Geelong, stick your head into Little Creatures Brewing to catch all the action, with the brewers and production staff on show as you sip on a pale ale or something a little more funky from their delicious range. Right on the Barwon River, you can stop in here for a beer, something to eat, and chat to the team to learn a little more about this WA-born success story.
1. Mortadeli
If tummies are rumbling on the drive from Melbourne, a detour via Torquay’s Mortadeli is essential – and not just for the nostalgia vibes. Load up on a killer cold cuts sandwich (pictured) or perhaps a pastizzi to set up your day just right.
2. Pier St
For anyone taking the ferry, we dare you to resist Pier St – it’s right there as you pull in. Its excellent seafood makes for a brilliant lunch, and with the weekend Docklands ferry arriving just before midday, it’s a sign that you have to go in.
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3. FarmDog Brewing
If you prefer to work up an appetite rather than launch straight into a meal, FarmDog Brewing is right near Flying Brick Cider Co. and Oakdene Vineyards. In addition to their great beers, the pizzas are next level. Just be sure to save room for their salmon paté – it’s seriously good.
4. Bennetts on Bellarine
Another top casual stop is the winery Bennetts on Bellarine (pictured), if not for their snacks, warm welcome and laidback wine tastings, then for the glorious outdoor setting. With a towering old gum tree, lawns and surrounding vines, there are few better places to be on a balmy afternoon.
5. Basils Farm
For a more refined dining experience, Basils Farm (pictured) overlooking Swan Bay gives diners the added bonus of exploring its beautiful, extensive grounds. Dogs are even welcome here, too. A stroll around the property will help you understand why the produce in your dishes is so fresh, and you’ll get to soak up the atmosphere, perhaps even with a glass of wine in hand.
6. Moonah
If you really want to push the boat out, plan ahead (and we mean way ahead), and hit up Moonah. Next to Barwon Heads, this intimate, hyper-local fine diner recently collected Best Regional Restaurant in the 2023 Good Food Guide Awards. Scoring a table here is a dark art (bookings open on the first of the month for three months out), but it’s a truly special experience.
1. Explore the beaches
You really can’t come to such a stunning coastal region without checking out its beaches. With so many great spots, they can be less packed over summer than other Victorian seaside hubs, and even if you’re here in winter (and it does get cold) a rugged-up walk along the sand is life-affirming. A visit to Geelong’s waterside Eastern Beach Reserve offers an excellent snapshot of this increasingly dynamic city, not least for the people-watching involved. Iconic Baywalk Bollards line the promenade, and there’s a lifeguard-patrolled sea bath and pool, too. Indented Head’s safe swimming beaches and foreshore reserve are a hit with families, as is Point Lonsdale, while surfers are right at home at Ocean Grove and 13th Beach.
2. Local galleries
The wider region is well set up for cycling with an array of trails, but if arts and culture are more your thing, then the Bellarine has you covered, too. The Geelong Gallery is phenomenal, one of Australia’s oldest regional art galleries and also home to acclaimed children’s museum MoPA, the Museum of Play and Art. Boom Gallery might be smaller, but it’s just as awe-inspiring, and it’s nearly impossible to leave without buying handmade ceramics, jewellery or homewares from its very cool gallery shop. In Grovedale, the Narana Aboriginal Cultural Centre provides brilliant insights into the area’s long Indigenous history. And in Queenscliff, Salt Contemporary Art features regularly changing exhibitions from Aussie painters, sculptors and ceramists across its two beautiful floors.
1. King of the Castle
You’re going to need coffee. We like King of the Castle in Geelong West for its industrial-chic fit-out and top-shelf coffee.
2. Kilgour Street Grocer
You’d also do well to swing by Geelong’s Kilgour Street Grocer (pictured) for a caffeine hit and, if you’re early enough, nab one of their white chocolate and raspberry muffins – trust us.
3. Ket Baker
There’s also great coffee at Wallington’s Ket Baker, but just be aware it’s almost impossible to leave this place without adding an artisan loaf or some pastries to your order. And nor should you.
