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Wine 101: What is carbonic maceration?


Read time 3 Mins

Posted 09 May 2024

By
Evan Jones


An illustration of the carbonic maceration process

From Beaujolais to Barossa, carbonic maceration is used to make easy-going red wines that are bright, fruity and super-chillable.

Wine is a 50:50 ratio of magic and science. Amazing flavour and pure enjoyment can be conjured out of thin air regardless of what’s in the glass if you’re, say, sharing a bottle with old friends or watching the sun set over a glowing vineyard. On the other hand, winemakers lose sleep over soil pH and they tinker with strains of saccharomyces cerevisiae to get their flavours just right. The magic is sometimes out of our control (which is part of its elusive charm), but the science – the winemaking tricks that say you’re going to like this – well, we can do something about that.

Carbonic maceration is one of those wine-science terms that might make you glaze over and stare into the middle distance, but if someone offered you a light, fruity, crisp red that can handle a little chill in the fridge, you’d know what’s up. That’s what carbonic maceration does to wine and, frankly, we’re all about it. So, next time you catch the term on the back of a label, or you’re on the receiving end of a natty bro’s rant at your local, here’s a quick guide to what carbonic maceration actually means.

Carbo…what?Sci-fi name aside, carbonic maceration is just a winemaking technique like any other – in this case, one that’s been around since the 1930s. With carbonic, whole bunches of grapes (that is, grapes that are all still attached to their stems) are placed in big steel tanks that are then filled with carbon dioxide and sealed off from oxygen. Soon, this private grape chamber begins producing a wine that, because of its unique starting point, has all sorts of flavours and characteristics that would otherwise not be present. We’re talking flavours like kirsch, bubblegum, cinnamon and vanilla. 
How to carbonicLooking under the hood, carbonic maceration is fascinating. It produces wine, sure, but in a way that’s totally different to tradition. Fermentation is generally kicked off by yeast, those tiny little fungi that eat the sugars in grape juice and produce alcohol. With carbonic, alcohol is produced through a process called ‘intracellular fermentation’, which means the fermentation occurs within the grape (thanks to enzymes rather than yeast, according to the experts). Once the grapes reach ~2% ABV, the skins split, the juice runs out and winemakers will likely finish everything off with a more traditional fermentation.
Carbonic maceration versus whole-bunch fermentationAlthough whole bunches of grapes are used in carbonic maceration, it’s not strictly the same thing as what you might see labelled as ‘whole-bunch fermentation’. Technically, whole-bunch is just winemaking without destemming the grapes, which was mostly the way wine was made in the old days before we invented the machine to crush and destem. Whole-bunch grapes also tend to be crushed before fermenting (which is not the case with carbonic) and the result is a little more tannic than carbonic wines, though both styles are known for a unique set of powerful flavours and aromas.
What does carbonic maceration bring to a wine?

To put it simply, carbonic maceration gives grapes a gentle nudge towards becoming wine. Most of the colour and tannin in wine – the chemical compounds responsible for the dry or bitter sensation you’ll often find in red wine – comes from skins and seeds and stems which, in carbonic maceration, don’t get a lot of time to mingle. Remember, the grape remains whole for the carbonic process, so the juice stays inside and absorbs a lot less of the tannin and colour that it would otherwise. For you and me, that means the end result is typically a light-coloured wine with low tannin (but still plenty of acidity), making it soft and easy-drinking. 

Carbonic maceration also has a big say in the final flavours and aromas of a wine, extracting characteristics that traditional winemaking wouldn’t get. Expect your carbonic wine to be big on fun, fruity flavours like strawberry, musk, almond, kirsch, cherry, banana and more. Carbonic wines are generally prized for being light, fruity, soft and easygoing which, honestly, is a real go-to for us.

Which wine styles are made with carbonic maceration?

One wine gets the headlines when carbonic maceration is mentioned: Beaujolais. The often light-and-bright French wine is made with gamay grapes (already prized for their low tannins and light body) and carbonic maceration heightens everything that’s great about the style. Beaujolais nouveau – a quick-fermented wine that’s ready just a few weeks after the grape harvest – is super light and crisp and commonly associated with carbonic maceration (or semi-carbonic, which appropriates some of the same techniques).

Really, though, carbonic maceration is just a technique and it’s regularly applied outside of Beaujolais and gamay. Pinot noir (which is no stranger to old-school whole-bunch techniques) is a common candidate, with all its natural cherry flavours and crunchy brightness happy to get dialled up even further. You’ll also see carbonic shiraz and syrah, the cabernets (sauvignon and franc), grenache, zinfandel and, particularly when it comes to those artsy natural winemakers, even white wine grapes can take to carbonic. Really, any grape can get the carbonic treatment.

For us, carbonic maceration is more of a subtle indicator of style and flavour than a good/bad qualifier. So ask yourself: am I feeling like a soft and fruity red wine that I might want to chill? Yes? Well, carbonic is on the menu. 

Want to learn more about wine? Spend some time browsing our Wine 101 stories, covering everything from how to taste it to how it’s made and so much more.     
image credits: Jae Jun Kim (illustration)