NOW EXPERIENCING:The Magpie
Friday: 3:00 PM – 1:00 AM
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Read time 4 Mins

Posted 12 Jun 2024

By
Matty Hirsch


People enjoying the outdoor seating at The Magpie in Sydney

Not so much pint-sized as middy-sized, this inner-west bar by a band of seasoned pros celebrates the local Australian watering hole in all its unpretentious glory, but with better drinks.

Some of the memorabilia around The Magpie in Sydney
Why you goWhat would happen if you cherry-picked the best parts of Australia’s vintage pubs and old-school sports bars, then crammed them into an improbably small site on one of Sydney’s liveliest high streets? Chances are it would turn out a whole lot like The Magpie, which opened up on Enmore Road in February 2024. There’s not much to the place – some clubhouse-style patterned carpet, a bit of bric-à-brac, the odd picture of Warnie – but you’re not here for a lesson in interior design. What you are here to do is rub elbows with regulars and tune in to the game on one of the TVs occupying most of the wall space. As for floor space, fitting even 35 punters in the room would be a stretch, but that chock-a-block energy is exactly what co-owners Pasan Wijesena, Sam Pinneri, Dan Hunt and Russell Martin are going for. You might recognise those names, given they’re the brains and brawn behind such institutions as Earl’s Juke Joint and Jacoby’s Tiki Bar. Even if you don’t, all you really need to know is you’re in excellent hands.
What drink to order You’d expect great beers from your local tavern, and you can expect them from The Magpie, too. There’s a rock-solid round-up from nearby indie breweries like Philter and Hawke’s, but pints of Guinness from the tap have proven a crowd favourite alongside the Magpie Old, an exclusive collab with The Grifter Brewing Co that honours the classic Aussie dark ale. The dozen-strong wine list, meanwhile, far surpasses typical taphouse plonk, throwing southern French rosé, steely Chablis and even Krug Champagne together with well-chosen quaffers by some of the finest lo-fi makers in the country. And while pub cocktails usually rank high on the list of Things to Avoid at All Costs, that isn’t the case here. Summon the spirit of the ’70s and call for the signature Irish Coffee or a good ol’ Rusty Nail, and see for yourself. Even the $19 price tag feels like a throwback.
The bar at The Magpie in Sydney
What to pair it withIn true-blue retro-pub style, a bag of salt-and-vinegar crisps is as close as you’ll get to a meal prepared on the premises. But if you’re in the market for more than that, you can call for a burger, some wings or hot chips from the chook shop a few doors down – and, yes, you’ll want the side of gravy for an extra buck, naturally.
Looking out to Enmore Road from The Magpie
Why we love itIn a scene full of fancy-pants concepts, this is about as pared-back as it gets without sacrificing the fundamentals that make for a great bar. And in spite of the square-metreage, or likely thanks to it, there’s a level of camaraderie here you just don’t find that much in bars these days. Swing past for a quick cold one and chances are you’ll be chatting with a fellow barfly in no time. Sure, there may be hardly any frills to speak of, but thoughtful little details are sprinkled throughout that make it all the merrier. Case in point? The schooner-sized cup holders along one wall that ensure you don’t get bumped and spilled on by your rowdy neighbours.
Don’t leave withoutChecking out what’s on at The Trocadero Room – an equally nostalgic live-music venue right next door, owned and operated by the same crew. On a quiet evening, it might be comics cracking jokes or a hip-hop, soul or jazz-influenced jam keeping it cool, while rowdier nights are given over to head-banging rock or local DJs laying down house and techno. The drinks, it’s worth noting, are just as considered, and on Fridays and Saturdays the action kicks on until 2:00am.
Inside the Trocadero, which is next door to The Magpie
Who to takeEven though The Magpie is very small, very loud and very much focused on sport if it’s on, there’s no doubt the “everybody knows your name” sense of hospitality (and dog-friendly policy) will appeal to most people. Still, your best bet is to bring a not-too-precious mate or two who won’t mind – quite literally – rubbing shoulders with the crowd. And speaking of crowds, if you’re rolling through for a big one like the Super Bowl or a big-time UFC Fight Night, it’s best to plan ahead and rock up early doors.