NOW EXPERIENCING:Restaurant Hubert

A fantastical entrance of cascading stairs leads to a celebration of all things French – a confident reimagining of the bistro playbook with a well-stocked cellar and service smarts to match.

The distinctive interiors at Restaurant Hubert 
Why you go

Suspending reality, if only for a little while, is so much of the reason we go to restaurants and bars. But where some places flirt with the notion of escapism, Restaurant Hubert absolutely revels in it. It’s a portal to another place and era – post-war France to be exact, or a very beautiful fantasy version of it – with no windows or hardly any mobile reception to convince you otherwise. 

When Hubert landed in 2016, Sydney had never seen anything quite like it – a vast basement space spanning two levels, two bars and a dining room complete with a stage for musicians, along with a clutch of private areas, including a 50-seat cinema. Somehow, though, it felt like it had already been around for years. The romance was real, right from the very start.

By that time, the Swillhouse group’s trifecta of bars (Shady Pines Saloon, The Baxter Inn, Frankie’s Pizza) had already taken Sydney’s drinking culture to a higher plane. With the opening of Hubert, the team announced themselves as major players in the restaurant game, too, by confidently reimagining the bistro playbook, with a heavily stocked cellar and service smarts to match.

In only half a decade, it has cemented itself as an essential drinking and dining destination – now with Two Chef’s Hats, no less – thanks to a level of ambition and immensity of scale that need to be seen to be believed. And, best of all, not for a moment along the way has the execution faltered. 

Why you stayIs there a more fantastical entrance to a venue in all of Australia than this one, with its seemingly endless cascading stairs and those 4000 or so miniature bottles of liquor running along the walls? From the moment you open the door, Hubert envelops you in its own world in a way that few other establishments can or even try to. This is a bistro on steroids, as seen through the eyes of Baz Luhrmann or Wes Anderson, where sumptuous details vie for your attention everywhere you turn. You’ll get swept up in the live jazz, the countless vintage posters, red-velvet curtains, empty wine bottles, dripping candles, fringed lampshades and infinite charm of the staff. And that holds just as true on your 50th visit as much as it does on your first.
LIve jazz at Restaurant Hubert
The impressive setting at Restaurant Hubert
What drink to orderAt Hubert, “old school” means “good school” and classics reign supreme. For best results, kick things off with a Martini or a Dubonnet Highball, or even a pastis or Chartreuse if you're that way inclined. Plan to spend plenty of time getting lost in the 30-plus pages of the wine list, which marries Australian benchmarks with big names from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne, then throws in some low-intervention curveballs for interest. Arrive thirsty.
What to pair it withIf you’re sitting in the largest bar area, known as Bar Pincer, nothing beats the Normandy burger – a puck of exquisitely rich dry-aged beef blanketed in Gruyère cheese that doesn't hold back on the mustard or raw onion. And while it’s nigh impossible to go wrong on the expansive restaurant menu, there’s a reason the chicken fricassée, pommes Anna potato side and crème caramel dessert have stuck around since day dot.
Why we love itThe grandeur of it all is just so damn impressive, and it’s underpinned by a rare degree of user-friendliness and flexibility that only adds to its appeal. Where else in town can you host a discreet business lunch in a tucked-away cave, swoop in with your cronies for an after-work Kronenbourg, make merry in what must be the world’s most adorable booths for two, or catch a screening of Sideways while magnums of wine and canapés get passed down each row?
The seafood platter at Restaurant Hubert
Regular’s tipIf you’re searching for the holy grail of happy hours, then look no further. Between 5:00pm and 6:00pm, Bar Pincer offers up $13 burgers (say yes to the mountain of fries for an extra $7) and plenty of cheap ways to chase them, including $12 Negronis and $6 G&Ts, beers and house wines.
Who to takePretty much everyone falls hard under Hubert’s magic spell, but the size of your party – and your wallet – matters. Patience is something of a prerequisite if you wing it with fewer than four pals – Bar Pincer is walk-in only and dining-room reservations are hard to come by. The smartest play, if you want to experience it in full flight, is to book well ahead and bring a proper squad that’s down to splash some serious cash.
image credits: Ethan Smart