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This swanky throwback to the glamorous glory days of the Rat Pack sets a new standard for Sydney’s hotel bars with inspired cocktails delivered in debonair style.
Certain operators are happy to rest on their laurels. Then there are those like Stefano Catino, Vince Lombardo and Martin Hudak who dare to dream even bigger. When the trio launched Maybe Sammy early in 2019, they opened a bar that caught the attention of Sydney and discerning drinkers worldwide – not even a year into its life it débuted at number 43 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. And it has climbed steadily ever since, taking out the gong for Best Bar in Australasia three years in a row.
Dean & Nancy on 22 – their hotly anticipated follow-up on top of the slick A by Adina Hotel – plays a similar hand to its older sibling. The cocktails are tricked-up, the showmanship as debonair as ever, and the reverence for the playful ’50s and swinging ’60s is in full effect. What’s different is the level of scope and ambition, from the far broader kitchen offering to the more expansive wine list. Sweeping skyline views and double-height ceilings add to the sense of occasion, making this a destination for locals to play tourist in their own home town.
Simply put, this is a place with all the trappings of a Big Night Out writ large, so roll up your sleeves and lean into that high-roller fantasy.
From the moment you ascend the sweeping staircase (and pose for an obligatory snapshot), you're thrust into a world of bygone luxury. Clock the baby grand piano as you enter, which gets tickled by jazz musicians on Friday and Saturday nights. Note the handsomely tailored dinner jackets worn by the bartenders. Take the time to appreciate designer George Livissianis’s opulent Mad Men-era interiors – the brushed brass, gold-veined marble and generous circular black-leather booths.
Of course, none of this would matter were it not for the charisma of the staff. Theirs is an engaging, tongue-in-cheek style of service that not only brings a great sense of energy, but also makes you want to hang for more than just a round. Then again, given the size of the cocktail list, that was probably your plan already.
What these guys do so well is turn a cocktail into a full-blown event. While there’s know-how enough behind the bar to whip up any classic, the original creations are the best way to experience the degree of detail and inspiration at work. Take the Rosella, an easy-going vodka-based refresher juggling honey, melon and Cocchi Americano aperitif wine. At the table, it gets finished with an aromatic bubble that, when burst, releases a cloud of perfumed mist. (Cameras at the ready.)
Another breezy concoction that layers coconut water, pineapple and rum called Roll the Dice comes with a pair of them. Roll a double, and you’ll score a complimentary glass of fizz. Heck, some garnishes are even keepsakes. Call for the Coffee Champagne, the bubbles spiked with peach wine, vodka and Mr Black coffee liqueur, and a tub of coffee-and-vanilla-scented hand cream comes out with it for you to take home. Here’s to the memories.
