NOW EXPERIENCING:El Primo Sanchez
Saturday: 1:30 PM – 1:00 AM
Phone
No phone
Website
elprimosanchez.com
Instagram
@elprimosanchezsydney

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 24 Jul 2023

By
Matty Hirsch


Tequila and mezcal take centre stage at this swanky cocktail bar and diner by some of the city’s sharpest operators who look to Mexico for inspiration and run with it in style.

Bar counter at El Primo Sanchez
Why you goAn old pub transformed into a glitzy, eye-popping ode to Mexico’s vintage cocktail bars? That’s the elevator pitch for El Primo Sanchez, and it’s a pretty convincing one. What earns this place a spot at the top of your must-visit list is the fact it’s no ordinary pub, but an Art Deco pearl on a prime Oxford Street corner. And the folks behind it – Martin Hudak, Vince Lombardo and Stefano Catino – just so happen to co-own some of Sydney’s most influential bars, including internationally awarded Maybe Sammy. The source material here at their fifth venture (and first in partnership with Public Hospitality Group) may be vastly different from their previous outings, but the offering and execution are just as outstanding as you’d expect.
Why you stayThis is a tactile, richly realised homage to a vibrant culture, refreshingly free of the sombreros, piñatas and Day of the Dead trimmings that characterise so many others of its kind. The fit-out by architect Tom de Plater and designer Studio Gram is just as retro as it is luxurious, punctuated with period movie posters, a cluster of mirror balls and shifting LED lights that lend more than a hint of Saturday Night Fever to the ceiling. There’s even a window shrine to Cousin Sanchez himself, the bar’s fictional namesake, who the fun-loving staff will tell you lived a life as wild and colourful as the space. Once the DJ starts spinning and the party energy takes hold, the intention to stay for just one drink is bound to become a distant memory.
Entrance at El Primo Sanchez
Bar counter at El Primo Sanchez
What drink to orderGiven the venue's theme and the pedigree of its owners, it won't surprise you to learn the headlining Margarita on the 10-strong cocktail list is good. What may surprise you, though, is just how good. To achieve uncommonly perky brightness, the team combines Patrón Silver tequila, agave syrup, fresh lime and offcuts of the zest with a secret house blend of orange liqueurs, then shakes and strains the mix into a salt-rimmed custom glass. It’s a knockout. Elsewhere, you’ll find three intriguingly sophisticated slushies and a selection of elegant highballs – think a mandarin-scented Paloma or a ripping twist on a Batanga featuring smoked cola and corn liqueur. Classics like Cosmos and Negronis are remixed with tequila or mezcal, too. And if you’re still licking last night’s wounds, the ferociously spiced Michelada – made with clamato juice and house-made hot sauce – will sort you right out.
What to pair it withMexican chef Alejandro Huerta plays his homeland's greatest hits on the snappy, flexible menu, injecting them with a fine-dining level of flourish and cross-cultural flair. Guacamole gets a glow-up courtesy of fermented green tomatoes and a spoonful of chunky chilli oil, served with what must be the crunchiest house-made tortilla chips south of the equator. Raw yellowfin tostadas are also worth a look, finished with flavour-packed habanero mayo, wasabi leaf and pickled turnips. It’s safe to say most folks will spring for the tacos, though, which run from marinated pork belly to a kangaroo schnitzel number with blistered green chillies. If there’s a standout, it’s the chicken carnitas, a dish that levels up juicy, spiced and shredded meat with avocado and jalapeño-chilli salsa topped off with shards of fried chicken skin.
Food served at El Primo Sanchez
Interior at El Primo Sanchez
Don’t leave withoutSome Sanchez merch. Where other bars might be content sticking to tees and totes, El Primo Sanchez goes all out with a collection of gear that comprises everything from pencils, pins and matchbooks to Margarita glasses and handmade ceramic cocktail jugs. And if you really want to feel like a member of the team, the button-down linen shirt uniform can be yours for a cool $69.
Make it fancyThere are countless ways to spend up large on the exhaustive list of tequila, mezcal and other agave distillates. If you’re eager to blow the whole week’s rent, however, have a crack at The Safe – a small suite of mega-rare spirits collected over time, intended for neat sipping, or mixing in Margaritas or Old Fashioneds. How rare, you ask? El Discípulo’s dizzyingly complex “Jabalí” Joven mezcal is one of only 48 bottles made, which makes a $61 nip (or $122 cocktail) well worth it. If you’re more of the wine-based persuasion, a bottle of plush, dark-fruited Palacios “Pétalos” Mencia ($155) from northwest Spain should do the trick, especially if paired with the 200-gram dry-aged sirloin from Copper Tree Farms ($60).
Who to takeWhile a comfy wraparound banquette and communal stool-lined high tables set the scene for casual catch-ups, ice-breakers and dining couples, the series of small alcoves and roomy booths out back beg to be taken over by groups looking to settle in. The person you really want to bring here, though, is a mate who will share the pocket-sized karaoke booth with you – and push the “¡Emergencia! Press for tequila” button inside, which triggers two shots ($27) hand-delivered from the bar.
Interior at El Primo Sanchez
image credits: Steven Woodburn