The Unicorn Hotel

First, the layout. Upstairs we’re talking a double-sided central bar, handsome bottle-green booth seating and tiles, solid wooden furniture, a pool table, stage for bands, DJs and the occasional stage dive, and a sunny spot in the back with bay windows and space to spread out. Downstairs there’s a second bar and a beer garden, and throughout the venue there’s a sense of pride in its walls, shown in the framed prints of banksias, native birds (spy the black cockatoo) and pastoral landscapes, as well as the mural featuring a map of the country decorated with native wildlife.  

That’s the setting, but what keeps you coming back is bar service that’s right on the money, a wine list that celebrates locals making next-wave drops, beers that are cold and balance craft and classic, and a counter menu that plays the classics better than almost anyone. Staff can stir a good Spritz as well as they can recommend adding an egg to your steak and talk you through today’s cut. Depending on the night, the mood can shift from laid-back and relaxed to full-blown disco fuelled by DJs and a dance floor that heaves into the small hours. It’s a pub for almost any occasion.

It has to be the schnitzel. Wing on, brined for juiciness, crumbed in panko breadcrumbs, and fried ultra-crisp, it’s served over buttery mash that positively drips with gravy, with a lemon cheek bringing a squeeze of acid. The best schnitty in Sydney? Don’t take their word for it – order one and check that curly parsley garnish bringing a little retro flair along for the ride. 

Not a crumbed chicken day? There are a couple of fancy steaks weighing in at 300 or 600 grams, but even the daily steak is a win, with the cut – perhaps rump cap – picked for flavour first. Add an egg, pick your sauce (creamy Cognac-spiked Diane, surely) then throw in a pavlova with banana cream for dessert. 

Oh, then there are the Mary’s burgers. And the French onion dip for snacks. And the pie with mash and peas. The list of good times goes on.