NOW EXPERIENCING:Martinez

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 24 Jan 2024

By
Matty Hirsch


A powerhouse hospitality group is adding a much-needed dash of French Riviera glamour to a revitalised pocket of Sydney’s CBD with this sprawling restaurant and bar.

The interiors at Sydney's Martinez
Why you goAsk any self-respecting Sydneysider for their thoughts on Circular Quay, and you’ll probably get a reply along the lines of, “Beautiful spot, but so damn touristy and underserviced when it comes to great eating and drinking.” Not long ago that certainly might’ve been true. These days, however, the top end of town is booming thanks to a recent raft of ritzy developments and precincts. And sitting just above street level, right in the heart of it all, is where you’ll find Martinez – the eighth venue to open in House Made Hospitality’s rapidly expanding stable, which includes Promenade Bondi Beach as well as Hinchcliff House across the road. This is perhaps its most ambitious offering to date: an unconventional, multi-pronged, high-capacity affair that swings from breakfast to dinner by way of a kiosk, dining room and rooftop bar. The inspiration might be the south of France, but really, it’s a celebration of things Sydneysiders hold dear: seafood-forward Mediterranean cooking, sharp cocktails, fine wine and sunshine.
Why you stayDream up every possible way to use a venue, and chances are Martinez has it covered. Al fresco after-work drinks? You bet. A celebratory long lunch complete with vintage Champagne and a kids’ menu? Indeed. Takeaway coffee at the kiosk out front, or cocktails and canapés for 160 of your nearest and dearest out on the terrace? No sweat. That easy-going “all things to all people” ethos will likely lure you through the door, but you’ll find reason aplenty to stick around, starting with the big, warm welcome at the host station. The deep reds of the dining room, boldly patterned banquettes and bright blues of the bar do well to draw your attention away from the trappings of the tower above, but not so much to distract from the Harbour Bridge views and the feeling you couldn’t really be anywhere else in the world.
Outdoor seating at Martinez at Sydney's Circular Quay
The Martinez cocktail, served up at Sydney's Martinez
What drink to orderWhere you choose to plant your flag will determine what you drink. Outside, cocktails take the tropical, fruit-forward route – perhaps a mango-and-coconut Spritz, perfumed with lemon myrtle, or a minty-sweet shake-up of gin, strawberries, lime and watermelon. Inside, the drinks tread a clubbier, more classic path in the vein of freezing Martinis poured tableside and a namesake Martinez that thrums with the richness of cherry vermouth and chocolate bitters. Wine, meanwhile, is a major focus venue-wide, with a solid line-up of drops on tap and a hefty list that balances Australia’s finest with big hitters from blue-chip pockets of France and its neighbours. In keeping with the Côte d’Azur motif, there’s also a spotlight on pastis – the liquorice-sweet apéritif best enjoyed with a splash of cold water on lazy afternoons.
What to pair it withMuch like what’s in your glass, what’s on your plate hinges on whether you’re inside or out. A crusty baguette, some cured meats and anchovies is all you need to bolster a quick sundowner in the fresh air, but if snacks roll into dinner, you’re well taken care of with burgers, pastas and a well-priced steak frites ($34). In the dining room, make like you’re in Provence and tick off the greatest hits: oysters and a Niçoise salad to set sail, followed perhaps by swordfish in an eggy, caper-rich sauce gribiche with poached leeks in vinaigrette riding shotgun.
A selection of dishes at Martinez in Sydney
Regular’s tipThursday and Friday afternoons find the terrace heaving at full pelt, so plan accordingly if you’re bringing a crew – also note that it’s only half-covered, so you’re at the mercy of the elements should the weather decide to play up. If you’re not the rowdy type, book a spot along the 12-seat kitchen counter, tucked away from all the action – a well-kept secret if there were ever one.
The seafood platter at Martinez in Sydney
Make it fancyLooking to throw down the company card and have at it? You’re in luck. At $50 a nip, a round of Clase Azul reposado tequila would make for a high-flying start, as would an $88 punchy dram of Sullivans Cove Old & Rare American Oak single-malt whisky. And while a hearty chunk of the 220-strong wine list stretches into three-figure territory, you can send it into another stratosphere with a $1,360 bottle of highly coveted 2008 Krug Champagne or a $2,641 bottle of Henschke’s legendary 1991 Hill of Grace Shiraz. Of course, that probably means you’ll need a platter of cooked and raw seafood ($49 per person) and a 400-gram striploin ($89) to go with them.
Who to takeGiven its privileged position in among a handful of top-tier hotels and soaring office buildings, out-of-towners and work colleagues are likely your surest bets when it comes to company at Martinez. Then again, if all you want is an excuse to play tourist in your hometown you’ve come to the right place.
Outdoor seating at Martinez
image credits: Steven Woodburn; Jason Loucas; Martinez