NOW EXPERIENCING:Continental Deli Bar & Bistro

Read time 5 Mins

Posted 11 Aug 2023

By
Alexandra Carlton


People sitting al fresco at Continental Deli in Newtown, Sydney

A bar-bistro-deli that whisks you out of the brash Newtown badlands and into a parallel European universe.

Why you goOut-of-the-know out-of-towners love to call Newtown, in Sydney’s inner west, ‘gritty’ or even ‘grubby’, but locals are usually too busy having a good time to care – mostly inside venues that are much more grace than grit, like the suave Continental Deli, Bar and Bistro. Tucked away in a side street off the main King St drag, this red-doored bar/bistro/deli hybrid from Elvis Abrahanowicz and Joe Valore (the guys behind such celebrated restaurants as Porteño and Bastardo) takes both its style and menu cues from Europe – bentwood chairs, cool marble tabletops, classic cocktails (in some cases un-classically housed in a can), cheese and charcuterie – and serves smallish nibbly things on the street level and sit-down lunch and dinner in the two rooms upstairs.
What drink to orderThe wine list, overseen by wine boss Joe Valore, has a pretty even origin split between the Mediterranean and Australia, but the real eye-opener on the drinks menu comes in a can not a bottle. Bar boss Michael Nicolian was a pioneer of Sydney’s city-wide love of the premixed single-serve cocktail. His house-blended Mar-tinnies, Negronis, Cosmopoli-tins and Can-Hattans are designed to be ring-pulled from their Andy Warhol-esque cans and emptied into a glass for your own little bit of self-driven tableside theatre. If your plan is to eventually head upstairs to dinner, select something from the impressive list of Australian, French and Italian vermouths in the bar first and order it as a lo-fi, very European apéritif: on the rocks with a twist.
Outdoor seating at Continental Deli Bar and Bistro in Sydney
What to pair it withIf you’re hungry, the team always has a selection of sturdy French dip sandwiches on the pass: Brickfields Bakery baguette packed with folded layers of Haverick Meats roast beef, cheese and onion and served with a bowl of savoury juices on the side for dunking. A bit peckish? You’ll be wanting a tin of Spanish octopus or razor clams, the clams served with a slim glass of the brine from the tin, spiked with sherry and a dash of Lillet Blanc. And if you’re only after a little side piece to your sipping, something that’s more of an exclamation mark than a full stop, their Gilda – a skewer of olive, anchovy and pickled guindilla pepper – is a single, sophisticated bite.
Regular’s tipTypically of the neighbourhood, space is on the squeezy side, so if you can, try to grab a window seat away from the bar’s main thoroughfare. Newtown’s colourful atmosphere is a feature not a bug, and the best place to take in whatever’s happening on the streets are the two front window banquette tables which comfortably seat about three people each. With its proximity to the local cop shop, courthouse and fire station there’s bound to be something outside worth watching. You’re a little out of the bar staff’s line of vision there, though, so if it’s busy you may need to do the odd bob and wave to get their attention.
Don’t leave withoutShopping from the deli part of the business that gives Continental Deli its name. Fill up a cotton tote with house-made sourdough, fine cheese, a few nubs of salami and smoked mortadella from LP’s Quality Meats and a pretty tin of La Belle-Iloise sardines and you can recreate the whole shebang at home tomorrow. Bonus points if you go full-immersion by adding one of their logo-print raglan tees.
Who to takeNewtown prides itself on being a melting pot for all the odds and ends who don’t necessarily fit squarely anywhere else. This place lures them all in: bookish types from nearby Sydney uni, young start-up entrepreneurs, and that see-him-every-day, rusted-on Newtown local who decided to double back for a quick drink after his dog walk. The bar-stool seating isn’t perfect for big groups, but it’s ideal for a catch-up with someone intimate – or someone you’d like to be more intimate with.