NOW EXPERIENCING:No 92
Thursday: 5:30 – 10:30 PM
Phone
(02) 9571 9292
Website
no92gpr.com.au
Instagram
@no.92gpr

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 10 Apr 2023

By
Matty Hirsch


Style and substance meet at this winning Inner-West wine bar, with its charming corner site home to fine Mexican-leaning eats and cocktails, and a mighty wine list.

Fine dine at Star of Greece restaurant
Why you goYou can find pretty much anything you’re looking for on Glebe Point Road – from bookshops and holistic day spas to pubs, greengrocers and a bustling Saturday market. And that’s to say nothing of the vibrant mishmash of cross-cultural neighbourhood restaurants. But it took the arrival of No 92, in December 2019, to point out something had been missing: a chic yet casual wine-bar-restaurant hybrid with sharp cocktails, considered cooking and schmick interiors. Joints like this aren’t unfamiliar territory in Sydney, but there’s something fun, freewheeling and just that little bit different happening here inside this picture-pretty Victorian terrace. Equal parts Old World and New, but entirely of the here and now, it’s the sort of polished yet unpretentious establishment anyone would be proud to call their local.
Why you stayAs cliched as it may sound, this place makes you feel like you’re in somebody’s home – and they have excellent taste. That’s what owner Angela Kasimis was going for when she enlisted the help of Sydney’s Pattern Studio to revamp the two-storey terrace, which dates back to 1874. The crisp façade is sure to catch your eye as you walk past, and cross the threshold, and you’re met with a rush of luxe finishes and elegant details, including marble tabletops, antique mirrors and striking light fixtures. You get a strong sense, too, of all the lives the building has lived over the years, first as a pub and later as a shoe factory, antique shop, tearoom, bank and private detective’s office. It’s truly a pleasure to sit here, and given the flexibility of the eclectic offering, friendly team and value for money, you’ll want to sit here often.
Seating arrangement at no 92
Drinks to order at no 92
What drink to orderIt pays to start with one of the cocktails, all of which are elegantly presented and play on the classics in clever and understated ways. An updated twist on a Piña Colada swaps rum for mezcal, then throws in clarified pineapple juice, black tea for depth and caps it off with silky coconut foam. The Tommy's Margarita, meanwhile, gets a Mexican glow-up thanks to the addition of cucumber, coriander and habanero chilli. From there, hit the well-judged, 100-strong wine list, which features both established players from key regions the world over and rising stars from Australia’s burgeoning lo-fi scene. Room for one more? A whisky-powered Old Fashioned with vanilla liqueur, cold brew and a dash of Japan’s mirin rice wine makes for a wickedly salty-sweet finish.
What to pair it withWhat began as a Euro-centric food offering has morphed into something far more inspired and exciting under chef Alejandro Huerta Carrillo. The menu draws on his Mexican heritage as well as time spent in some of the world’s great kitchens, such as Pujol in Mexico City and Copenhagen’s Noma. Expect dishes rooted in tradition with a fine-dining level of finesse and detail – raw-kingfish tostadas with smoked soy mayo and fermented chilli, say, or casarecce pasta tossed through asparagus, brown butter and black-bean XO sauce. His tacos are standouts, too, built on house-made blue-corn tortillas and topped with grilled dry-aged beef or marinated duck cooked over charcoal.
Drinks to pair with food at no 92
no 92 regular tips
Regular’s tipThere are two weekly specials well worth your attention. Swing by on Wednesdays for Pasta Night, when $35 scores you a bowl of the good stuff and a glass of vino. The deal to beat, however, might just be the Sunday $89 bottomless brunch, which includes a set menu of share plates and two hours of sparkling Bellini cocktails, bubbles,  and white, red or rosé wine. Aim to snag a table in the courtyard on a sunny afternoon.
Make it fancyWhy not begin with a bang by calling for a magnum? More specifically, a bottle of Wittmann Estate’s juicy riesling ($230) or Domaine Charvin’s dark-fruited grenache blend ($245). The selection of tequila and mezcal is tight but packed with treasures, too – the pick of the former being the luxurious Fortaleza Añejo ($26); for the latter, a fruity, rich and spicy release from Origen Raíz ($40) distilled with seasonal fruit and deer meat. To cap it off, try a nip of Rucolino ($24), a peppery digestivo made with rocket from an island off the coast of Naples.
Make it fancy at no 92 and order drinks
Who to takeThis is a rare gem that’s just as primed for a long lunch with mates chasing the hair of the dog as it is for a civilised dinner with your mum and dad – or even nan and pa, if they’re young at heart. And if anyone in your circle has a thing for interior design, you might want to consider inviting them.