NOW EXPERIENCING:Ach Wine Bar
Wednesday: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM
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Website
achwinebar.com
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@ach.winebar

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 22 Apr 2024

By
Fiona Donnelly


The setting inside Ach Wine Bar in Brisbane

This pioneering bar and bistro brings the heat to a lesser-known part of Hamilton. Expect Middle Eastern feasts cleverly whipped up on the wood-fired grill and lesser-known wines on pour.

Seating at Ach Wine Bar
Why you goHow many wine bars can you name that bake four specialty Middle Eastern breads daily – and pour wines from Turkey, Lebanon and Israel by the glass? Welcome to Ach. Now, Ach may sound a little like a Scottish expression, but it’s actually a Hebrew word that means “brother”. It also translates to “fireplace”, which is meaningful because the clever kitchen at this Hamilton hotspot centres around a sizeable wood-fired grill. The emphasis placed on quality and flavour here is unsurprising given two of the three owners are chefs – Martin Coard and Noam Lissner – while the third, Mat Drummond, takes diligent care of the front of house. They all have hospo form, blipping first on Brisbane’s dining radar at the well-received Knowhere in inner-city Spring Hill. As soon as you land at Ach’s sleek street-level digs you can feel the effort and care poured into making this destination a success. Decor skips what could have been corporate blandness in favour of rich, earthy tones and natural materials like sandstone and timber, with a broad terrace out front.
Why you stayThe address says Hamilton, but don’t be fooled – you’ll swerve a bit off the beaten track to get here. The upside to Ach’s slightly unusual location, at the base of a glam office building in an up-and-coming light-industrial district overlooking a grassy development site, is that there’s heaps of parking nearby. The absence of stratospheric inner-city rents also means the Ach fit-out is nicely detailed, the venue is airy throughout and there’s space aplenty. But word is getting out – this is a proposition people are willing to key into Google Maps to find. The mood is upbeat, the owners rightly confident we’ll explore what’s on offer. The area is designated as part of Brisbane’s 2032 Olympic Athletes Village and already there are plenty of residents in the ’hood. Many of these locals turn up with a laptop or their dogs in tow for chatty sundowners on the terrace. As the evening rolls on, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights, Ach’s Afro house and Middle Eastern beats playlist cranks up, encouraging early comers to stick around for more snacks and perhaps to explore a neat list of Middle Eastern-inspired cocktails.
What drink to order

Sure, there are thoughtful, well-made Australian offerings on the wine list here, but it’s a good idea to try at least one of the Middle Eastern wines, especially when they’re available by the glass. Have you tasted wine made from narince grapes, for instance? Now’s your chance. Vinkara’s Doruk Narince is a dry white with a lovely amber hue from Turkey that works perfectly with Ach’s swordfish shashlik skewer. Or there’s a Lebanese sparkling from Château Ksara if you fancy a blanc de blancs with a difference. Or a nicely layered red from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley to drink alongside Margra lamb. If you’re really in the mood to nerd out, ask about limited-run specials such as a natural Bethlehem red made in teeny amounts from indigenous Palestinian grapes. 

Cocktails at Ach also enjoy a Levantine spin – the Dead Sea, for instance, is as blue as its muse and built around Tromba tequila and Blue Curaçao with a touch of lemon and a dash of salt, while Turkish delight fans could enjoy the A Thousand and One Arabian Delights featuring Archie Rose vodka, Alizé Rose Cognac liqueur, rose syrup and lime. Designated drivers, meanwhile, can have Heaps Normal XPA or choose an organic non-alcoholic sparkling kombucha from Melbourne’s Monceau brewery.

A cocktail served at Ach Wine Bar in Brisbane
One of the dishes offered at Ach Wine Bar in Brisbane
What to pair it withService here is speedy and enthusiastic, so take control of the pace and order as you go – otherwise you may find yourself faced with a table full of snacks and no wiggle room to enjoy extra bread or dessert. Definitely try the plaited challah bread, either with bone marrow, capers and sumac-spiced shallots, or with a dish of the fantastic house pickles – cucumbers, tiny mushrooms, and radish presented with a whirl of pale house-smoked butter alongside. You need fried malawach in your life  – the Jewish answer to India’s bronzed paratha bread; this golden disc of goodness comes out with anchovies, dill cream and more cucumber pickle magic. The wagyu nayyeh – the Middle Eastern version of beef tartare – is tricked up with green-tomato ezme, a tangy Turkish condiment, and might come with either grilled laffah, which is a lot like pita, or crisp lavash crackers for scooping. If you’re looking for extra heft, give the wood-fired grill a workout with anything from a juicy wagyu rump cap with za’atar-spiced butter and pine mushrooms to ocean trout with tabbouleh and chatni gashneez, a fiery coriander chutney laced with walnuts and chilli. Food never takes second place to drinks, so come hungry to take full advantage.
Why we love itDid we mention the four breads these guys bake in-house? Anyone who lives in Queensland will appreciate plaiting yeasted dough for challah bread in such crazy humidity requires dedication, practice and love. That’s not to mention crafting butter-rich pastries. While you’re here, check those pickles arrayed in jars above the pass, too. This is the real deal. Now imagine being able to enjoy the house-baked breads and considered snacks with carefully sourced wines from under-represented regions. What’s not to love?
Regular’s tipRegulars know if they ask politely the kitchen will do takeaway dinners. They also know that between 4:00pm and 6:00pm a happy hour is in play at Ach where you can sit, shoot the breeze and snag selected wines and beers for a sociable $7 a pop. There’s a big table out front, too, that accommodates large groups.
Plaited challah bread is made in-house at Ach Wine Bar