NOW EXPERIENCING:Flying Colours

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 11 Dec 2023

By
Fiona Donnelly


West End’s friendly new bar is winning favour with cross-towners as well as savvy locals thanks to its warehouse-style good looks, well-priced low-fi wines and faultlessly pitched menu.

Ambience at Flying Colours
Why you goOwner Simon Martin’s previous project, the tiny-but-mighty Super Whatnot, was a trailblazer in Brisbane’s emerging small-bar scene when it sparked up back in 2011. In early 2023, Simon chose not to renew the lease on that site, sending the much-loved bar out on a high. Flying Colours, his new and even more ambitious project, taps into a post-pandemic zeitgeist where drinkers and diners see value in having extra room to spread out and breathe. Airy, open and dotted with greenery, it’s a big undertaking, but somehow Simon has managed to create a Goldilocks zone of a destination. He’s preserved the small-bar vibe, but magically stretched it across this far larger space without losing the personal touch or quirkiness. And the venue name? That’s a tribute to the diversity and vibrancy of West End, Simon’s home suburb. “Whatever flag you fly, your colours are welcome here,” he says. “Everyone, whatever orientation or background, is welcome. We’ve got the same open-door policy here that we had at Super Whatnot and, of course, we want to do everything well – and pass with flying colours.” And, yes, they do.
Why you stayFlying Colours fits its lively inner-city locale perfectly. The site was once a warehouse and while it’s big, it’s far from bland. There are nooks for groups, each with their own personality, and even in the attractively planted courtyard there are choices to make. You might pull up a chair streetside to people-watch with a glass of natural wine or a cocktail in hand, or swing across to welcoming high tables on the western side to hang with mates beneath cute retro umbrellas, or perhaps stake a position centrally at more conventional-style tables should you plan to stick around and dine al fresco. Inside, there’s a cool listening lounge with a plush U-shaped black-leather banquette. This is the prime spot to savour the tunes coming out of those snazzy Tasmanian Pitt & Giblin speakers, the simple DJ booth and a nicely front-lit cache of vinyl gold. But Flying Colours is wired for sound so you’ll hear well wherever you’re seated. Beside the listening lounge is the bar and a dining room with a double-height ceiling. Throughout the venue there’s table service, but this is an unbuttoned kind of space, so you can also just stroll up to the bar and order. Sets by Brisbane DJs kick off late afternoon, with early sessions channelling a lazy sunset-on-a-tropical-island vibe via jazz, soul, reggae and dub. Later in the day, more house music enters the mix. That super-sized disco ball dangling in the dining hall isn’t just for show – expect occasional late-evening dancing.
Drinks at Flying Colours
What drink to orderFancy Plumm glassware and well-priced juicy Jilly wines on tap? That’s a winning combination. And the rest of the list reads well, too, in a roll call of some of our finest small-batch producers. You might find the Adelaide Hills’ Sven Joschke La Justina Chardonnay by the glass, or Xavier’s fruit-forward Papa Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley. Or for something quite different, try the aptly named White Gate’s Curio, a red blend of big-flavoured cabernet, mataro and shiraz, which tastes almost soft and pretty. The list changes all the time, but you can expect creative wines from producers with credibility. Time for a beer? Certainly it’s hot work enjoying yourself. Yulli’s unfiltered Seabass Mediterranean Lager, local brewery Aether’s All Australian Pale Ale and Land and Sea’s Socializer, a good session ale at 3.5 per cent, are all on tap. There are also packaged beers (including Two Bays Gluten Free) and non-alcoholic choices such as Heaps Normal Quiet XPA and Hiatus Pacific Ale. A tight edit of cocktails changes seasonally, but a Pimm’s Cup with ginger ale and whatever fruits are at their best is always welcome when the sun is shining. You might also find a Basil Martini or Negroni starring Never Never’s Ginache gin, made with grenache grapes, and Maidenii’s sweet vermouth.
What to pair it with

Flying Colours pitches itself as a bar for the neighbourhood and there’s a focus on local when it comes to the food, too, with a clutch of South East Queensland producers name-dropped on the menu such as Neighbourhood Farm and Little Acre Mushrooms. Former Gerard’s Bar chef Adam Wolfers consulted at Flying Colours, and the result is an offering calibrated to please. While the menu showcases Adam’s renowned vegetable-whispering powers, current chef Andy Birse makes sure there’s choice for those who prefer to keep it classic or just want to snack. Main courses might include steak frites and market fish alongside the likes of glazed lamb ribs with garlic labneh strained yoghurt, or a kohlrabi “schnitzel” with mushrooms. 

There’s plenty to tempt grazers, too. Black pudding is turned into generous-sized croquettes that make fine drinking partners, coming out crumbed and adorned with a smidge of grated egg yolk. Sharing the plate are pickled fennel to cut through the meaty richness and a blob of plum sauce. Smoked mussels on toast are equally hearty, with a tasty topping of pickled onion, carrot and doorstep Sprout Artisan Bakery’s sourdough toast. House fries with aïoli are a must with the smoked pork cheek hot dog, which has become a signature. 

 

Food at Flying Colours
Happy hours at the Flying Colours bar
Regular’s tip

Neighbourhood Drinks is Flying Colours’ version of happy hour, running for a generous two hours. Drop in between 4:00pm and 6:00pm from Wednesday to Friday and those tasty Jilly wines on tap are a ridiculously good-value $7 a glass. Half the seats are bookable and half are kept for those of us not organised enough to plan ahead, so it’s worth taking a punt any time. 

Flying Colours not only has an open-door policy for humans, it also welcomes their four-legged friends, so you and your hound can both enjoy a sundowner on the patio together.

Who to takeApart from your dog? Anyone. This is a destination you can rock up to and have a good time with your great-gran, work pals or your latest date.