NOW EXPERIENCING:Naldham House
Wednesday: 11:30 AM – 11:00 PM
Phone
(07) 3187 7815
Website
naldhamhouse.com.au
Instagram
@naldhamhouse

Read time 2 Mins

Posted 20 Nov 2024

By
Fiona Donnelly


A waiter with three cocktails on a tray at Naldham House in Brisbane

Grand in scale and ambition, historic Naldham House has been resurrected as a three-level temple devoted to good times served up with worldly wines and European flair in the kitchen.

The plush decor at Naldham House, Brisbane
Why you goBrisbane has no lack of super-sized drinking and dining venues, but few have the heritage charisma of Naldham House with its elegant white façade and al fresco terrace. Most recently, the building was occupied by the members-only Brisbane Polo Club. Now, one of the city’s few enduring architectural links to its 19th-century past has been boldly resurrected as a three-level temple devoted to good times that welcomes all comers. The crew driving the Naldham House transformation, Dap & Co, is none other than the seasoned team behind local stars The Gresham and Walter’s Steakhouse, so you’ll be well looked after. On the building’s middle storey is Club Felix, a plush supper club and lounge, while the first level is home to the upscale Brasserie and Terrace. A third venue on the top storey, yet to be announced, will complete the package.
Why you stayRoll up to Naldham House and you can’t help but be impressed by the stateliness of this landmark building. But while the exterior helps to draw you in, it’s the comfort factor and lack of pretension on offer beyond the grand entrance that will keep you crossing the threshold. The Brasserie’s ’80s-rock playlist underscores the no-pomposity message, while the unconventional colour palette is another clue. This is no paint-by-numbers approach to a legacy revamp. Here the focus is on fun, not fustiness. Sure, The Brasserie’s club-style decor – book-lined walls, flattering lighting, plush carpeting, and U-shaped leather booths – creates a vibe that encourages patrons to make an effort, but there’s no snootiness from the aproned staff. If you pop into The Brasserie to check out the exuberant choices of acclaimed designer Anna Spiro, and to enjoy a glass or two, ask to sit up at the splashy marble bar or set your sights on a comfy sofa. But if you decide to thoroughly road-test the Euro-leaning menu and suitably worldly drinks list, book a table or one of the booths. There’s plenty of space for walk-ins on The Terrace, where the snack choices proved so popular they’re now available inside, too. The likes of sweet, marinated Mooloolaba prawns on toast, or bronzed chicken-skin crisps slathered with creamy whipped cod roe are perfect to pair with a classic Pisco Sour, say, or one of the house cocktail creations.
Snacks and cocktails done very well at Naldham House in Brisbane
The impressive bar at Naldham House, Brisbane
What drink to orderYou’d expect a venue conceived by the owners of The Gresham to have a bang-up drinks offer – and you’d be right. But it’s the little touches that mark out this venue as a destination of note. Why don’t more places offer a globetrotting list of wines by the glass in a choice of pour sizes, for instance? The same hard-working selection runs across The Brasserie and The Terrace so there’s zero FOMO wherever you’re seated. You can order the Terrassen Grüner Veltliner by Austrian star Domäne Wachau, say, whether you’re taking the air out on the actual “terrasse” or tucked up in a cosy nook in The Brasserie. Upstairs at no-bookings Club Felix, meanwhile, there’s a whole new range of choices. You can dip into a come-hither collection of bubbles that includes Tasmanian sparklings, crémants de Bourgogne and big-name Champagnes. Among the precisely made cocktails, a classic Boulevardier of bourbon, Italy’s bittersweet Campari liqueur and red vermouth is as smooth as the plush surrounds. And you can snag a draught Guinness whether you’re upstairs or down.
What to eatPartial to a posh meat pie? The Brasserie’s French-accented beef Bourguignon pithivier is a cracker. Shredded slow-cooked beef cheek is encased in shiny, golden pastry and arrives in a pool of sticky wine-spiked jus. Order a pomme pavé side to go with it. Thin, precise slices of baked potato, the top layer tanned and crisp like textbook crackling, are crowned with tangy crème fraîche. Flathead fillets, meanwhile, arrive with super-crisp crumbed exteriors and a splodge of sauce gribiche, a herby upgrade of the usual sauce tartare that’s studded with chopped hard-boiled egg and capers. In short, it’s a menu that embodies European flair with clever technique on show, but never to the point that it overshadows the excellent produce.
The beef Bourguignon pithivier at Naldham House
The setting inside Club Felix, which is part of Naldham House in Brisbane
Don’t leave withoutHead upstairs to the blue-on-blue tones of Club Felix for a pre-dinner brightener or wind-down nightcap – it’s open until midnight. And if you’re in need of extra ballast to see you safely back home, its snack offerings include a wagyu cheeseburger and an upmarket take on a fish sandwich using whiting fillets. Keep your ears open for more news about what’s coming next upstairs, too.
image credits: Dexter Kim