You don’t need to be Drake or 1,000 years old to enjoy this phenomenal French spirit.
For all the glitz and glamour that comes with the most iconic names in Cognac (think Hennessy, Courvoisier, Remy Martin, and any other brand you’ve heard in a Drake song), in Australia, at least, it’s always been a much more niche drink – something only brought out at Christmas, Lunar New Year, or when filming a rap video. But the complexity and history of Cognac well and truly rivals that of whisky – and it’s certainly just as delicious – so why, in a world where building whisky and gin collections is commonplace, don’t we appreciate it more?
There’s no one simple answer to this question. A general awareness of Cognac exists, but its luxe connotations and most people’s lack of familiarity with the drink makes it an intimidating order when stepping up to the bar, and even more so when faced with the proposition of forking out for a bottle. Cognac also accounts for just 1% of the global spirit production. Simply put, it’s pretty rare, which makes it harder to find, more expensive and highly sought after. We suspect that’s why you don't hear as much about it, and not because it’s any less tasty than the more popular names in the spirit world.
So, we’ve decided to lift the fog and demystify Cognac once and for all. It’s making its comeback, and sooner or later you’ll be introducing your friends to this fine French spirit. And when you do? You'll need a few conversation starters to stoke their fire. Read on for everything you need to know about this illustrious spirit.
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What is Cognac, and how is it different from normal brandy?
Cognac, and its neighbouring cousin Armagnac (the two are often grouped together), are both brandies: spirits made by distilling fruit juice (most commonly grapes) and, much like whisky, ageing it in oak to impart additional flavour and colour to the final liquid.
Cognac is both a place and a drink. The simplest way to describe it as a concept is that Cognac is to brandy what Champagne is to sparkling wine. Cognac is a region in southwestern France, just north of Bordeaux, and you better believe it’s fancy. Disney-esque castles dot the banks of the Charente river, as do the vineyards where the grapes are picked to make the Cognac. It’s the only place that a real Cognac can be produced, the same way Champagne can only come from its namesake region. Within the Cognac region, there are further classifications (called a ‘cru’) denoting the quality of a plot’s soil, with the highest rating being Grande Champagne, followed by Petite Champagne.
Because of its rarity, provenance and the quality of the fruit it’s made from, Cognac is widely considered the gold standard of brandy, and indeed many of the world’s oldest and most illustrious brandy houses are based there – the oldest being Martell, which set up shop in 1715 and has been producing acclaimed Cognac ever since.
What does Cognac taste like?
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The flavour of Cognac varies so widely that in 2009, a bunch of experts – distillers, sommeliers, journalists – got together to create the Cognac flavour wheel. There were 50 of them and they each tried 100 different Cognacs, with their resulting 5000 tasting notes being used to create the flavour wheel. This sorts Cognacs into four categories: summer (fruity), winter (wooded), spring (floral) and autumn (spicy). The more common flavours include apricot, cinnamon and vanilla, as well as chocolate and port in older examples. It takes a lot of work to whip up a batch of Cognac, and a Cognac blender's main goal is to keep the flavour consistent from year to year, making experience absolutely priceless in the Cognac industry.
What should you eat with Cognac? Whatever you fancy. But if you’re looking for inspo, it goes brilliantly with freshly shucked oysters, a pungent blue cheese, or a full board of charcuterie replete with pâtés, cured meats and terrines. It’s also exceptional with almost any dessert.
All of this makes Cognac an incredibly versatile spirit. Check out our guide to mixing, sipping and pairing Cognac for the lowdown on what it’s truly capable of.
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What are those weird letters on the bottle?
Instead of using age statements like Scotch and bourbon, Cognac is broadly divided into four categories according to the time the unaged spirit, rather romantically named eau-de-vie, has then spent ageing in oak. Naturally, they generally get more expensive as you progress through the ranks.
Firstly, and most commonly, you’ll find ‘VS’, or ‘Very Special’. This is Cognac at the younger end of the spectrum, which means it’s been aged for a minimum of two years. Next is ‘VSOP’, or ‘Very Superior Old Pale’, which will have spent at least four years in barrels. Another level up, there’s the prestigious 'XO’ designation. This stands for ‘Extra Old’, meaning a Cognac has spent six or more years ageing. Finally, there’s XXO – the oldest and rarest designation a Cognac can acquire (in fact, the designation was only created in 2018). XXO brandies must be aged for longer than 14 years and sometimes cost well into the thousands of dollars, bottled in ornate decanters that form an enviable centrepiece in any drinks cabinet.
As mentioned, Cognacs come in thousands of different flavour profiles and ages, meaning, like whisky, the simplest way to choose your first bottle is by opting for the tasting notes that appeal to you most at your price point. Below, we’ve chosen a few bottles that will get anyone started in a good way, boasting those classic Cognac tastes and textures at a variety of price points.
Hennessy VS
Hip-hop connotations aside, there’s a reason that Hennessy, probably the world’s most famous Cognac, remains an enduring icon. The VS – the youngest and most affordable in Hennessy’s range – is an excellent entry-level introduction into the world of Cognac, with rich and intense fruit flavours that lend themselves as well to cocktails as they do to sipping neat.
De Luze VSOP Cognac
Renowned among connoisseurs, De Luze makes outstandingly affordable Cognac, with their best-value proposition, the VSOP, clocking in at the same price as many of the bigger brands’ VS offerings. Expect luscious flavours of dried stone fruit, apricot and just a touch of orange blossom, with a silky smooth finish.
Martell Blue Swift
The cognac to which all others really owe thanks, Blue Swift is the flagship drop of Cognac’s oldest brandy maison, now entering its fourth century of production. Blue Swift, a VSOP, is a quintessential Cognac with a slight twist, made very much in the house’s signature style, but finished in ex-bourbon casks as well as the traditional French oak for added vanilla and toasted oak characters.
Delord XO Armagnac
Heading slightly south to Armagnac, Cognac’s smaller and slightly lesser-known sibling, we find Delord – makers of one of the best XO brandies you’ll find anywhere at its price point. Still made by the direct descendents of the man who founded the distillery in the 1890s, being aged for a minimum of 10 years affords it a wonderful level of added complexity, with rich caramel and oak notes on top of Cognac’s classic dried fruit flavour profile.
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