Nothing says ‘party’ like the pop of a cork. But who says it has to be French?
There are few more exciting sounds than a Champagne cork being freed from its bottle. It’s the pop that announces the party has started (how many other noises are met with spontaneous cheering?) or that a special occasion is about to unfold. Plus, the fact it’s the ultimate match for seafood adds a little romance and, coming from France, there’s also some je ne sais quoi going on.
But the French aren’t the only ones nailing this sparkling wine thing – Australia has fast found its place on the world stage with some seriously impressive fizz. Tasmania, Victoria’s Yarra Valley and the Adelaide Hills in South Australia are among our star regions, with these cooler climates producing super-premium fruit that’s bang-on for bubbles. And as more Aussie producers gain experience with their vines and sparkling winemaking techniques, more regions are emerging, too. The French have had centuries to perfect Champagne, but we’re rapidly making up for lost time.
There’s the origin, for starters. The name Champagne is only allowed for sparkling wine grown and made in its namesake region (beware ordering “Champagne” if you don’t want to fork out for French). Champagne makers are also bound by more rules than us. For example, they can only blend chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier in their wines, and use the ‘traditional method’, while our sparkling makers are free to experiment with any grape, in any which way. Bring on those sparkling chenins.
The die-hards will argue that Champagne’s long fabled history, prized climate and chalky soils, and proven quality all make these wines impossible to beat. But they obviously haven’t spent time with our own incredible styles, particularly the vintage wines made in the same meticulous way as Champagne. Our producers are giving the French a run for their money – at a fraction of the cost, too.
Tasmania is synonymous with top sparkling, thanks to some clever pioneering people. Like others around the country, many of the island state’s sparklings can be likened to those sought-after grower Champagnes – the sommelier’s favourite. Unlike the big Champagne houses, these producers grow and harvest their own fruit as well as make the wines, and this hands-on approach is considered by some to result in higher levels of quality.
Pipers Brook and Ninth Island founder Andrew Pirie laid a lot of the Tassie groundwork, helping to put the state on the wine map. The sparklings under the Pirie label prove just how good Tassie bubbles can be – one rich, complex example is the Pirie Tasmania Vintage, which slips in under $50.
We can also thank Ed Carr from House of Arras for showing the French what we’re made of; he’s the only winemaker from outside Champagne to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine Championships. Not bad for a former microbiologist who started his career in the dairy industry testing milk and yoghurt cultures. Each House of Arras wine is of incredible quality, and one highlight is the Arras Grand Vintage 2014. Eight years spent maturing in the bottle has brought sky high complexity and toasty brioche notes that mingle with vibrant fruit flavours.
From North East Tasmania, Clover Hill only makes sparklings in the traditional method, and their Clover Hill Vintage Brut is another brilliant option for under $50. Aged in bottle for three years, it captures a liveliness, intensity and elegance, which are arguably Tasmanian wine’s superpowers.
Also long boosting Tassie’s sparkling game is Jansz, which has been specialising in bubbles since 1986. For another benchmark vintage style packed with finesse and all those classic toasty and creamy notes, seek out the Jansz Tasmania Vintage Cuvée.
Various Victorian regions are prime cool-climate territory for chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, with the Yarra Valley among the state’s finest. An excellent regional example of that 100% chardonnay style is from Oakridge – no surprise considering their celebrated track record with this variety. The Oakridge Sparkling Blanc de Blancs combines bright apple flavours with creamy, buttery notes in a deliciously vibrant wine.
And from South Australia’s Barossa Valley, Grant Burge is as well-loved for its sparkling wine as its big reds. Showcasing fruit from the Adelaide Hills, the Grant Burge Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay Vintage is creamy, crisp and packed with citrus flavours, offering a super-reasonable buy at less than $40. Can Champagne do all of that?
