From assyrtiko to verdelho, a whole new world of deliciously crisp whites awaits.
Is there a more misunderstood grape variety than riesling? It’s so often dismissed as a sweet wine but, here in Australia, this aromatic white is mostly made in beautifully dry styles. Bone-dry, in many cases. Just don’t tell too many people about it because this misconception tends to keep its demand and prices down – few wines will give you as much bang for your buck.
This great white is all about fruit purity, with bright lemon, lime and apple flavours that mix with floral notes and lively acidity. Those citrus notes make it super compatible with any dish that gets a squeeze of lemon (read: seafood), while its bright acidity cuts through fat (hello fish and chips), and also offsets chilli and spice brilliantly. And let’s not get started on its immense ageability.
But this isn’t meant to convert you to riesling (although we think you should). Instead, we’ve rounded up five other top varieties that offer similarly crisp, fresh drinking. If you’re ready to know your way around less-familiar wines and step into a whole new world of delicious whites, read on.
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1. Semillon
For a zippy white wine loaded with citrus flavours, enter young semillon. You could even geek out with wine-loving friends and line up a bottle against a riesling to taste and compare. The NSW Hunter Valley has long championed single-varietal semillon wines, and the region has proven time and again that, just like riesling, semillon ages and evolves for decades. The result is a rich and layered wine, with lanolin being semillon’s trademark aged character that sets it apart.
If you love riesling as an energetic young wine, try the Audrey Wilkinson Semillon. And if you’re into aged riesling in all its complex glory, we recommend the Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon as it’s released with bottle age.
2. Grüner Veltliner
Hailing from Austria and now finding a home in Australia’s various cool-climate regions, grüner veltliner (groona velt-leena) is a brilliant choice for riesling fans and anyone who enjoys whites with a little complexity. In addition to its fresh fruit flavours, grüner is known for its herbaceous and softly spiced notes, and has a high acidity in common with riesling. If you consider this grape’s origins, grüner is an ideal wine match for the likes of schnitzel and fried chicken as well as lighter dishes.
Geoff Hardy in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills was an early adopter of this variety, so his Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Gruner Veltliner is an excellent introduction.
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3. Picpoul
We could just write ‘delicious’ here and leave it at that, but there’s so much more to know about this food-friendly white. While picpoul (pick-pool) has only recently become a must-list for good Australian venues, this variety has been making dry and light wines with zingy acidity for centuries, particularly in France’s Languedoc. With its vibrant citrus, apple and floral characters, it could be confused for riesling, and it also has a beautiful texture on the palate, which elevates it to a great food wine. Like riesling, picpoul shines with seafood and fried foods.
Get to know this wine with the crisp and clean Moulin de Gassac Picpoul De Pinet.
4. Assyrtiko
Greek wine? Who knew. Hailing from the spectacular Greek island of Santorini, this hardy grape is another that shares many of riesling’s best-loved traits, including bright fruit flavours (think citrus and pear) and fresh acidity. It’s been gaining many fans on our shores in recent years, and even found a home in South Australia’s Clare Valley. That’s because riesling specialist Jim Barry of Jim Barry Wines fell in love with assyrtiko (ah-seer-teeko) on a trip to Greece and became so enamoured with it that he later became the first to plant it in Australia.
For a youthful, refreshing Greek example full of intense fruity aromas, look out for the Gaia Monograph Assyrtiko.
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5. Verdelho
This Portuguese grape may be lesser known than many of its white counterparts, but it deserves more attention – not least for its versatility. Long used in the production of Portuguese madeira, verdelho (ver-dell-oh) has been embraced by a range of producers in various Australian regions, particularly the NSW Hunter Valley. Verdelho is celebrated for its fruit flavours – citrus when the grapes are harvested early, and more tropical notes when the grapes ripen longer. The wines can also be a little fuller in body, and they’re brilliant with so many different dishes.
As with riesling, the lack of mass demand for verdelho makes it another win for the wallet, as seen with the Tulloch Verdelho, which is made in a fresh, crisp style.
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