Hot takes: The best sake, according to the experts

We’ve been shouting about sake for ages now – and for good reason. The quintessentially Japanese beverage is food-friendly, sophisticated, unique and, best of all, absolutely delicious. While sake might not be on your radar outside of sushi bars and izakayas, we think it has the versatility, diversity of flavour and approachability to be part of your regular rotation. You just need to know where to start.

Sake is made from fermented rice, making it closer to a beer than the ‘rice wine’ label it sometimes gets. And, like beer, sake comes in a huge range of styles (these are known as grades), meaning there’s something for everyone. Prefer your drinks on the sweeter side? There’s a sake for you. How about dry, lean and complex? Sake has your back.

So, which sake is the best? Well, that depends on who you ask, which is why we checked in with the following three pros.

Melbourne’s Disuko is a multi-level homage to all that is wonderful about Japanese eating and drinking. There’s the izakaya, where tsukune skewers and charred tataki sit comfortably next to Japanese-style cocktails. There’s an eight-seat omakase bar for a more intimate, chef-led dining experience. Then there’s the vinyl bar where 33s and 45s provide the backdrop for a backbar exploration. And among it all is sake, which bar manager Jay Blais is passionate about.

“It’s incredible how four humble ingredients [rice, rice koji, yeast and water] can produce a vast array of flavours based on how you manipulate certain variables, much like how wine, region and climate play a big role when discovering characteristics,” Jay says. “That’s my favourite part – understanding where a batch is brewed gives you a sneak peek on what to expect before tasting.”

Jay has his favourites – chilled, with floral and cantaloupe flavours – but he’s clear that the best sake experiences are all about the company. “The right sake is one that’s shared. Simple as that,” he says. “Always with food and enjoyed with a group of close mates for lunch, an intimate dinner, or as an ice-breaker while getting to know new friends.” With sake styles across the full flavour spectrum, including sweet and fruity, delivering juicy melon notes, and others full of umami, Jay says you can’t go wrong. “As long as you’re willing to accept the adventure and keep an open mind.”

Whitebark is a neighbourhood classic for West and North Melbourne locals. Co-owner Josh Upton now specialises in Aussie and Kiwi drinks and food, but his first love of Japanese drinks was sparked by a bottle of sake gifted by a Japanese friend.

“I remember we heated up the last few sips, and, as I have had plenty of warm beers, I had it set in the back of my mind it would be similarly garbage. That was not the case,” Josh says. He was amazed that he loved that delicate sake served cold, at room temperature and warm, too. And so began his sake journey.

Now, considering the foodie focus of his wine bar, it makes sense that Josh especially loves sake when served with food, so you’d better believe he has a few tips on getting the pairings right.

“Whisper-light palates and sweet, fresh fruits are typical of daiginjo and ginjo sake, and won’t overpower less pronounced foods, such as raw seafood,” Josh says. “What about some fiery Thai bites? Grab the same bottle. The lifted sweetness can help temper the heat, with compounding floral notes from your sake and the beautiful chilli.” For heavier or umami-forward meals (like Mum’s spaghetti, apparently), Josh reckons junmai is the way to go.

It takes serious know-how to become a Dan’s drinks specialist and, lucky for North Ryde locals, Guy Vaillant has plenty more than just wine and spirits in his arsenal. Guy’s brain is packed with sake facts, thanks to his formal sake education, but there’s plenty of passion, too.

“I did a sake sommelier course, which made me look into sake with food matching,” Guy says. “I changed my perception of having sake not only with Japanese cuisine but also with other styles of cuisines. I like it because sake flavours can change dramatically at three different temperatures: warm, room temperature and cold.”

While Guy clearly has a deep knowledge of sake, he has some simple advice for anyone new to the world of Japan’s favourite drink. “Forget the idea that every sake must be served warm,” he says. It all comes down to the specific rice-polishing process involved in a sake’s production, which determines how much of the grain’s rich, starchy middle is left. “Once a sake's polish passes 40 or 50%, warming it up will destroy the flavour profile of a style.”