NOW EXPERIENCING:Yellow Billy

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 28 Feb 2023

By
Brenda Christian


A destination-worthy winery restaurant, Yellow Billy celebrates flame-grilled meat and house-grown produce in a picturesque vineyard setting paired with local and global wines.

Chef at work at Yellow Billy
Why you go

This prized local is one of the Hunter’s red-hot diners. It made a name for itself with fiery feasts and a fiendishly good drinks list, so it’s no surprise it claimed a chef’s hat in the Good Food Guide 2023. Chef Sam Alexander and sommelier Pat Hester have been keeping locals and visitors fed and watered since they opened Yellow Billy in 2018. 

The restaurant is named after a “gentleman bushranger” named William White – Yellow Billy to his light-fingered colleagues – who reputedly roamed the Hunter Valley during the 1860s, sleeping in caves under the Brokenback Range. Legend has it he was an early forager, living off the land and cooking over an open fire to survive. Alexander and Hester have immortalised the notorious character by celebrating flame-grilled meat and house-grown produce in a picturesque vineyard setting that’s sure to stoke your embers.

 

Why you stayIt’s a destination-worthy dining and drinking spot at Piggs Peake Winery that takes barbecue to the next level, with everything cooked over open flame. When you arrive there’s no need for the signs to the restaurant – just follow your nose and the tantalising smell of smoked meats wafting in the air. You can dine al fresco in the courtyard with its bubbling fountain or head indoors to sink your teeth into the juiciest, tender cuts of meat around. There, the tables beside the windows overlook the kitchen garden and an unassuming corrugated-iron shed where all the fiery action happens at the custom-built fire pit. The vibe is laid-back, the staff cheery and the drool-worthy drinks list makes it oh-so-easy to settle in for a relaxed afternoon dining overlooking the vines.
Food and cocktail served at Bar
What drink to order

While Yellow Billy spotlights food cooked over fire as the star, the supporting cast – the globetrotting wine list – nearly steals the show. Want to try a wine from Armenia? No problem. Lebanon, Chile, Argentina or Greece? You can try them all here in the heart of the Hunter. It’s a wow-factor wine list cherry-picked by sommelier Pat Hester with a whopping 290 wines by the bottle and around 45 by the glass. If that makes choosing a wine tricky, Pat’s on hand to talk you through it. 

Each month he dedicates a page to a unique or interesting producer whose wine he loves to drink. That might be Hungarian winemaking duo Attila Homonna and Zoltán Jakab from Tokaj, for instance. There’s also a What We’re Drinking Now page of wines offering two half-glasses of Hester’s local faves to try. If you’re into white, Thomas Wines “Braemore” and “Like a Version” sémillons are on pour. Like a red instead? Opt for David Hook’s savoury nebbiolo or sagrantino. If wine isn't your thing, there are 22 beers and ciders and Pat also makes killer cocktails using ingredients from the kitchen garden. The Bush Tucker Mule made with Earp Distilling Co gin, limoncello, spiced honey syrup, lime juice, Strangelove ginger beer and native pepperberry is a showstopper.

What to pair it withThere’s a choice of two or three courses where you select a small plate, large plate and (optional) “afterthought” dessert with sides served in the centre of the table to share. Everything that comes out of the kitchen is full of charry goodness such as a small plate of smoke-infused barbecued octopus with almond cream and spiced chickpeas, and larger plates of Pukara Estate pit-fired and pressed lamb shoulder with a smoky baba ghanoush eggplant purée, or charcoal-grilled flank steak hot off the grill. For meat prohibitionists there’s an aromatic red lentil curry with local pumpkin, cucumber, labne yoghurt and puffed rice. A tip: the pecan pie with salted-caramel ice-cream is a knockout.
Food and cocktail served at Yellow billy bar
Regular's tipIf you’re out sightseeing and want a quick bite and coffee head to The Sty, a hole-in-the-wall outlet in the courtyard between the cellar door and restaurant. It’s the go-to for tasty toasties and sausage rolls made in-house by the Yellow Billy kitchen team using local ingredients. Think house-smoked ham and cheese jaffles with tomato relish and sausage rolls filled with pit-fired lamb and harissa or wagyu rump and Binnorie feta cheese. It’s only open on weekends and does a roaring trade with locals ordering online and picking up their jaffles, but you can sit down and snaffle them on site, too. 
Don’t leave withoutAsking about the Kings Table bang-up banquet event. It’s a long lunch held four times a year and includes a tour of the garden and fire pit followed by a wood-fired banquet lunch on two long tables with delicious drinks to match.
Why we love itIt’s a fine-dining version of a barbecue joint with melt-in-your-mouth meats paired with quality wines and friendly staff to boot. To quote the late great Jim Morrison, “Come on baby, light my fire.”
image credits: Dom Cherry; MJK Creative