NOW EXPERIENCING:Sunhands
Drinks Directory|Casual catch-up|Melbourne|Outdoor area

Sunhands

Thursday: 8:00 AM – 10:00 PM
169 Elgin Street, Carlton, VIC, 3053
Phone
No phone
Website
sunhands.com.au
Instagram
@sunhands.sunhands

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 21 Aug 2023

By
Tomas Telegramma

This sunny corner spot does double duty, seamlessly transitioning from cafe to wine bar in European style, serving mostly Victorian drops by mostly small-scale producers. 

A breakfast dish at Sunhands, Carlton
Why you goSometimes, the more a venue takes on, the less it can pull off. But that’s not the case at Sunhands – a four-in-one cafe, deli, wine bar and general store on a suitably sunny corner in Carlton. The key? Not overcomplicating things, so they blend naturally. It’s the kind of place you can go for an espresso and a “dippy egg” and end up – a few hours later – slurping oysters and natural sparkling without really realising how. And without anyone around you really taking notice. It’s got that easy-breezy European-style transition from cafe to wine bar down pat (complete with dog-friendly streetside seating) and you’re invited along for the ride. It’s no surprise it works, though; it’s by the team behind all-day eatery and drinkery Heartattack and Vine, which has been doing something similar – and nailing it – on nearby Lygon Street for years.
Why you stayDo some (fancy) shopping – the back wall acts as the general store. Shelves are stocked with all sorts of artisan bits and pieces; everything from sourdough loaves to locally made spirits, and market-fresh produce and flowers. Alongside is a wine fridge chock-full of drops from exciting Aussie winemakers, which you can get to take away.
What drink to orderMostly Victorian, mostly small-scale producers make up the approachable, not-set-in-stone wine list. So it’ll likely change a little between visits. But if you really want to lean into the Sunhands experience, order a glass of Upside Wine – it’s Sunhands co-owner Nathen Doyle’s own label. His rich, indulgent Dead Mullet Blanc chardonnay, from 2020, is a winner – made with grapes from Western Australia’s renowned Margaret River region. If it’s a cocktail you’re after, the Celery Collins is an even more refreshing take on the classic Tom Collins: a palate-cleansing, night-starting mix of gin, absinthe, celery, parsley, lemon and soda. Crisp. 
Through the window at Sunhands in Melbourne
Dishes and drinks at Carlton's Sunhands
What to pair it withThere’s a theme here. Like the wine list, the bar menu at Sunhands is always evolving, which is to say if you see something you like, order it – or risk losing the chance forever. While there are a few sure bets (freshly shucked oysters with mignonette dressing, giardiniera, aka Italian pickled vegetables, and baked ricotta), chef Pat Drapac – formerly of Old Palm Liquor and Bar Romantica – lets the seasons drive his menu. And his dishes of the day are chalked up on blackboards around the bar. You might find hearty white-bean cassoulet, a slow-cooked French stew with ham hock and crisp Brussels sprouts, or Flinders Island wallaby with brown-butter carrots.
Why we love itIt had big shoes to fill – and it did so seamlessly. The Sunhands site was previously home to exceptional Japanese cafe Ima Project (which has relocated to Brunswick). It was known for its breakfast sets, warm hospitality and constant popularity, with a queue stretching down Elgin Street most weekends. While completely different in concept, Sunhands has managed to capture the community in a similar way to Ima, filling the void with just-as-welcoming service to make it feel like part of the furniture. A nicely neutral colour palette – with plenty of rich timber – adds to the lived-in charm. 
A Martini and olives at Sunhands in Melbourne
A crowd outside at Sunhands in Melbourne's Carlton
Regular’s tipDining (and drinking) out can come with serious decision fatigue, especially at a spot like Sunhands where the menu is all killer, no filler, and everything sounds like a delicious time. But fear not. Order the morning or afternoon “plate” and get a vibrantly coloured, well-balanced chef’s selection of snacks. Until 1:00pm, that means a soft-boiled egg with slabs of Akimbo sourdough, as well as veggies, ferments and more; throughout the afternoon and evening, there’s more cheese and cured meats involved.
Don’t leave withoutLook up. It’s easy to miss on your way in, but just above the door is a beautiful custom-made leadlight window by local artist Poppy Templeton, aka Duck Ragu. On a golden backdrop, it spells out “Sunhands” in red, with a vase and fruit bowl above it.
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Tomas TelegrammaTomas is a food, drinks and culture writer, and former Broadsheet Melbourne editor.
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Drinks DirectoryCafeMeal and a bevTakeawaysNon-alc OptionsBarDate nightCasual catch-upMelbourneVego Food OptionsMelbourne – Inner SouthOutdoor area
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