A cool clubhouse for natural-wine fans and the people who love them, Old Palm Liquor has a genuine good-time vibe that comes with talent in the kitchen and hospitality on the floor.
Some come here for the wine alone. Co-owner Simon Denman has populated his lengthy list with low-intervention (aka natural) wines he sources from all over the globe, including from less-stereotypical winemaking regions such as Japan and Georgia. The range is comprehensive (30-plus pages) and it delivers, whether you’re just dipping your toes into natural-wine waters or can talk for days about biodynamic winemaking practices and already know which red wines should be served chilled. Make the most of Denman and ask questions even if you don’t need guidance – he’s brilliant at explaining how these wines are made and how they taste, and has a talent for gauging how much unfiltered funkiness you’re up for.
The list is also a good way to check out what’s happening with Australian wine in the natural sphere (good news: it’s looking very strong), but with around 10 beers on tap, mostly from Victorian breweries, an excellent collection of vermouth, a solid list of well-made cocktails (mostly classics in the Martini and Manhattan mode) and some excellent no- and low-alcohol choices, wine is not your only option.
The food is another reason to stay. Almay Jordaan (who is also co-owner and chef at sibling wine bar Neighbourhood Wine) has a way with the barbecue, whether you’re talking super-wine-friendly snacks like grilled house-made focaccia topped with the fiery spreadable salami ’nduja and a plump anchovy or grilled West Australian octopus, or something heftier such as grilled hapuku smothered in a blood-orange brown butter. There’s something about watching your dinner coming directly off a barbecue and onto your plate that makes eating this already-delicious food an even better proposition.
The best seats in the house on chilly winter nights are the two lounge chairs in front of the open fire in the back room. You’ll need to book well ahead if you want to secure them, but the effort is worth it, not just for the warmth and the view, but to enjoy all the envious looks from those seated away from the hearth.
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