NOW EXPERIENCING:MoVida Aqui

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 05 Mar 2024

By
Michael Harden


A recent renovation has given the legal district MoVida outpost a quiet sophistication without stinting on the outstandingly good Spanish-accented flavour of the drinks and food.

The banquette tables at MoVida Aqui in Melbourne
Why you goThere’s no need for an excuse to visit any of Frank Camorra’s small empire of Spanish-accented MoVidas. A pioneer of Melbourne’s Spanish restaurant scene, Frank has four outlets in the city (along with versions at both Melbourne and Sydney airports), all expert at demonstrating the joys of eating and drinking like a Spaniard, especially if you’re a fan of eating and drinking at the bar. But if you were looking for extra motivation, MoVida Aqui, in the city’s legal district, has undergone a recent makeover that’s delivered a more luxe space than its original incarnation. It’s all dark timber, curved banquettes, Burgundy and green upholstery, a mix of tiled and carpeted flooring and flattering lighting. Given the quality of the food coming from the open kitchen, you’ll be tempted to stay for dinner, but even if you’re here just for a quick glass of cava sparkling or txakolina white wine, a jug of Sangria or a sherry-based cocktail, there are brilliant snacks to accompany those, too. Plus, there’s also the feeling of spending time in Madrid or Barcelona without the expense of an airfare.
What drink to orderAqui’s drinks list is not an all-Spanish affair, but it leans in that direction, which makes it a good place to explore the breadth and depth of Spain’s output, whether you’re talking wine, sherry, gin or vermouth. The compact cocktail list is a good place to start, especially since it includes a big-flavoured Sangria made with MoVida’s own spice blend, and it’s available by the glass or jug. There are also great combinations that include sherry, like the Solera Citrica, a powerful and refreshing blend of manzanilla sherry, white rum, agave and grapefruit. The by-the-glass wine offering runs to a whole page of the list and provides the opportunity to try excellent albariño and a chewy mencía red from one of Spain’s great winemakers, Telmo Rodríguez.
A cocktail served at Melbourne's MoVida Aqui
A few of the Spanish-inspired dishes at MoVida Aqui
What to pair it withThere are plenty of larger dishes on the menu for those arriving with a group (or a hefty appetite), but much of MoVida Aqui’s best work is to be found on the tapas and aperitvos sections of the menu. The signature Cantabrian anchovy served on a croûton with a delicious dollop of smoked-tomato sorbet is in the house and always worth ordering, but there’s plenty more where that came from. The spanner crab-topped warm crumpet finished with zesty finger lime is thrillingly good, as are the leek and cheese croquetas, spiced lamb skewers cooked over coals and an amazing calamari bocadillo (a small sandwich) lifted with Andalusian spices including smoked paprika and cumin, and aïoli. In short, it’s a menu where the only disappointment comes from not having the stomach capacity for everything you want to try.
Why we love itThere are plenty of reasons to love Aqui, but among the best of them is the service. The relaxed but always-efficient staff are well-versed in all the drinks and food, so if you’re not overly familiar with the Spanish good stuff, this place provides a safe pair of hands to guide you on your journey of discovery.
Don’t leave withoutTry Spanish gin. Spain is a country as enamoured with gin as England, and the drinks list here offers examples from Madrid, Barcelona, Jerez de la Frontera and Menorca. Gin here comes served with sides of tonic water and distiller-recommended garnishes, and it’s offered at 30ml in a Highball or the more traditional 45ml balloon. There are plenty of examples from elsewhere, too – Australia, England, Scotland – in case you’re in the mood to compare and contrast.
Inside MoVida Aqui, which has had a smart refurbishment
Make it fancySpain is famous for the quality of its ham, aka jamón, and Aqui offers one of the best examples of cured leg ham around: the 24-month-aged jamón Ibérico from Carrasco that’s made from acorn-fed pigs. At $55 a serve it’s not cheap, but proves the rule that you get what you pay for. Pair it with some bone-dry manzanilla sherry and you’ll be very pleased with yourself.