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Molly

Wednesday: 4:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Odgers Lane Canberra 2601
Phone
02 6179 8973
Website
molly.bar
Instagram
@mollybarcanberra

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 18 Apr 2022

By
Pat Nourse

Hard to find, but very easy to like, Molly is everybody’s favourite party-starter and late-night playground.

Bar interiors
Why you goWhen a bar lists its contact details as “35°16'44.5"S+149°07'42.0"E”, you definitely know where you stand. If you’re the sort of person who likes their venues well-signposted with lots of windows, bright lights and, you know, something like a street name in its address, this might not be your jam. But if you like a story with your drinks, and a sense of discovery and adventure – well, it’s time to dial into Molly’s coordinates. The cocktails are cool, crisp and classic, the jazz is live and hot: you’re in for a treat.
Why you stayMolly ticks all the speakeasy boxes. Hidden entrance? Check. Crisply attired bartenders? Check. Strong representation in the brown-spirits department? Check. Wood panelling, fine glassware, dim lighting? Check, check and check. But while it’s a long way from the first bar to take the Prohibition era as its inspiration, the magic is in the way it’s put together – with real gusto. And, being in the historic heart of Canberra that was actually founded in that era (the ACT even had a Prohibition of its own, for a time), there’s some real substance behind the sass.
Piano with a lamp
Blue Blazer cocktail
What drink to orderThere’s only so many times you can watch the bartenders pour a stream of blue fire from one jug to another before you just have to get in on the action yourself. The Blue Blazer is a true cocktail classic, more than 100 years old, and more than a little bit exciting. It combines Scotch whisky, hot water, a little sugar and a whole lot of skill on the part of the bartenders: setting it alight and pouring it in a two-foot-long gout of fire is all part of the recipe. Don’t try this at home; do order one here – there’s no better cure for Canberra winter weather.
What to pair it with

Americana is the name of the game on the menu at Molly, as befits the theme, often with an uptown twist. In place of a regular hotdog, for instance, you’ve got the Dime Dog, built around a sausage made with smoked pig’s head (more delicious than it might sound). The fried chicken is enriched with buttermilk and served with a mayo spiced up with smoky chipotle chilli (this is an especially good time with anything with bourbon in it). Vegetarians are richly rewarded with (vegetarian) lasagne croquettes, crumbed and fried. While the house take on the classic Reuben sandwich, crammed with pastrami, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese, comes nicely accessorised with crisps and cornichon pickles.

The more substantial eats are served till 11pm, while the snacks (olives and nuts, the cheese, the charcuterie and the Reuben), are on right through to midnight every day.

Menu Card
Bartender
Why we love itIt’s a bar with plenty of heart and even more smarts. Never mind “good for Canberra”; this is just a great bar by anyone’s measure, and it’s ready to show you a good time.
Regular’s tipBookings close at three in the afternoon for sittings the same evening. Walk-ins work, but there’s much to be said for holding a reservation, especially if you’re rolling a few deep, and that goes double for weekends. A stitch in time saves nine.
Make it fancyThere’s some seriously big-ticket rare whisky on the shelves, and some even fancier stuff in the vault. Decades-old Craigellachie? Done. Whisky made in France? Easy. A Laphroaig that’s older than you are? Make it a double. See your bartender if pain persists.
Who to takeDark and dim, Molly has plenty of atmosphere just right for a date. On the other hand, they do plenty of functions, so if you want to come with a crew, they’re past-masters at catering for parties big and small. For something to expand your horizons, book in for a classic cocktail class or a private tasting of their gins or whiskies.
A glass of a cocktail
Authour image
Pat NoursePat Nourse is a writer, critic and editor with a passion for great bars.
Tags
Drinks DirectoryKiller cocktailsBarCanberraSpecialty BarFancy occasionVego Food OptionsA+ spirits listDate nightWheelchair accessible
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