NOW EXPERIENCING:Cameo

The Ritz-Carlton’s 80th-floor bar offers spectacular views, refined cocktails made from antique spirits and true old-school hotel glamour that’s surprisingly rare in Melbourne.

Why you goNothing adds glamour to an evening like surveying city lights from a great height, particularly if you’re doing the surveying through floor-to-ceiling windows while lounging on a comfortably upholstered seat with a well-made drink in hand. Perched 80 storeys above Melbourne in the Ritz-Carlton, Cameo covers those bases without breaking a sweat, and adds another level to the equation with Michael and Zara Madrusan, the hospitality power couple behind The Everleigh, Heartbreaker and Bar Margaux, overseeing Cameo’s cocktail list. It’s no surprise, then, that the drinks, both classic and house specialties, are a match for the spectacular views, even before you get to the “antique” section of the menu featuring time-honoured cocktails made with old and rare spirits, some dating back to early last century when many of these cocktails were first created. It’s a drinking experience as glamorous and rarefied as the glittering backdrop of city lights.
A Negroni at Cameo in Melbourne
Why you stayIt’s always been mystifying that Melbourne, a city that prides itself on its bar culture, has so few good high-end hotel bars. There are signs that this might be changing, though, and Cameo is a step in that direction. Sure, it’s a swanky hotel bar on the 80th floor of a brand-new skyscraper, but with input from the Madrusans, it taps into the creativity and personality of the local bar scene. Spirits and liqueurs are carefully sourced, often from small and artisan producers (though you can still get a Baileys if  that’s what you’re into), wine and non-alcoholic lists are more than an afterthought, and there’s a snack menu of serious quality from the hotel’s executive chef Michael Greenlaw. The room is more eccentric than you might expect, particularly because there’s no traditional bar. Instead, the bartenders make drinks from a stainless-steel station on one side of a central table. It’s a nice touch that creates further intimacy in a space that only seats 30 people. Don’t be surprised to find yourself ordering another round just to enjoy the rare experience of being in a hotel bar with real connection to the city it inhabits. 
What drink to orderIf you come to a bar where Michael Madrusan, a bartender with a shelf full of trophies, has created the cocktail list, you really need to order a cocktail. If you’re feeling super-flush and intrigued by the idea of antique cocktails, you should start there. Who wouldn’t be tempted to try the 1930 Old Fashioned made with a bourbon distilled 90-plus years ago in America during the Prohibition era? Sure, the price tag is eye-watering ($350 for a regular-sized cocktail, $155 for a half) but there are others, like a 1960 Daiquiri, which will only set you back $90 and, really, what price history? These spirits are rare and when the bottle is finished, there’s no replacement. But back in the real world, Cameo’s non-antique cocktails are very well made and priced relatively modestly in the context of a bar in a five-star hotel. Either way, have a cocktail.
Pouring a drink at Melbourne bar Cameo
What to pair it withLike Atria, the Ritz-Carlton’s signature restaurant, Cameo’s snack menu highlights Victorian produce. Cheese and cured meats are locally produced, the parfait is made with Macedon Ranges duck livers and the olives are from the excellent Mount Zero. Still, this is a hotel bar and there are expectations, so there’s also caviar for those who must, along with baked French Camembert cheese and oysters that are often sourced from beyond the Victorian border.
A drink with a view at Cameo in Melbourne
Make it fancyObviously the antique cocktails will immediately hurtle you into fancy territory, but there are other ways to splurge at Cameo. Tequila fans should check out the list, taking special note of the Fuenteseca Reserva 11-Year-Old Extra Añejo made in Mexico’s Michoacán by renowned master distiller Enrique Fonseca.
Who to takeGiven the price tag, the luxe hotel setting and the implicit romance of a backdrop of twinkling lights, Cameo is a bar that you’ll want to share with your main squeeze or the person with the potential to become that. Still, if you have nerd-level cocktail people in your friendship circle, introducing them to this place would be an endearing and thoughtful thing to do.