NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Louise

A cracking and gigantic Euro-centric wine list bolstered with sherries and vermouths is delivered alongside unswervingly tasty tapas-style dishes in a relaxed retro setting.

The entrance to Bar Louise on Enmore Road
Why you goInner-Westies are very protective of the wildly beloved, pink and purple 1950s-era Marie-Louise hair salon frontage on Enmore Road. When the previous restaurant that lived behind it, Stanbuli, sadly vacated, the neighbourhood narrowed its collective eyes and sharpened its pitchforks as they waited to see if the next occupants would be worthy of the honour. A sigh of relief could be heard from Earlwood to Erskineville when Bar Louise was announced, the latest venture from the group that runs Continental Deli, Porteño and Bastardo. And when it was further realised that Bar Louise would be serving relaxed Spanish/Argentinian-style tapas and a fabulously explorable wine list that jangled all over Europe and around every kind of grape, the people agreed. The ceremonial hairdryer and rollers set could be formally presented. The old girl was in good hands. And Bar Louise has been delighting the neighbourhood ever since. 
Why you stayIt would be easy to say that Bar Louise is everything an Enmore Road bar should be, but that’s not entirely true. More often than not, the venues around here are the grip-your-seat wild times of Fortunate Son or Jacoby’s Tiki Bar. Bar Louise is a far more sedate affair – in the best kind of way. When you arrive, you’ll likely be greeted by a little light Elvis or Dolly over the speakers, and then guided either to a casual bar seat or table downstairs, or more likely upstairs if you’re part of a larger group (hint: downstairs has better atmosphere thanks to its proximity to the street and Bar Louise’s actual bar, so if your numbers allow it, stick down there). The décor has a bit of retro Iberian ranch about it – bulls, donkeys, the odd Picasso-esque print. Settle in and drip-feed yourself a procession from the menu – a few Gildas and some vermouth to start, say, maybe moving on to a plate of Spain’s spicy chorizo sausage with a Frozen Sangria. It all kind of clashes and it all kind of works, so don’t overthink it; just let yourself be looked after.
The casual setting inside Bar Louise in Sydney
Perch at the bar for drinks and food at Bar Louise
What drink to orderWhen was the last time you had a Tequila Sunrise? What’s stopping you? Orange juice works great with Spanish food, so why not kick things off that way while you’re digging around in the fun things-on-picks-and-sticks end of the menu? The Frozen Sangria, poured into a tall terracotta glass, serves a similar purpose, but when you’re ready to sit still and start paying attention, it’s all about the sherry, vermouth and gigantic Euro-centric wine list. It’s compiled by Melvin Haxaire-Christophe (late of P&V Wine and Liquor Merchants), and he’s a man who knows his way around a Catalán sauvignon blanc or a malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza region. Even the house wines are a cut above, such as the bar’s own-label mataro made by Canberra wine legends Mallaluka.
What to pair it withObviously pick your way through the prerequisite tinned Spanish briny, fishy, olive-y things, but then make sure you order whatever looks as though it’s likely to come in any sort of dressing or sauce – that’s where Bar Louise really shines on the cooking front. An example might be a saucy plate of grilled calamari with tangy bagna cauda of anchovy, garlic and olive oil and aïoli, or thin slices of beef tongue in a mustard sauce. You will urgently require a basket of doorstop-thick bread – sprung from the sourdough starter at the group’s bakery, Humble – to mop up the juices.
The food is tapas-style at Bar Louise
Don’t leave withoutCheck out the framed note cards to the left of the bar on the ground level. They’re details of customers’ specific haircare requirements, leftover from the original Marie-Louise Salon. “Mrs Hill – curls all over” or “Mrs Donnelly – very thick head of hair, wants it soft” read typical entries in careful cursive ballpoint pen. A little slice of Sydney history.
Sydney's Bar Louise used to be a hair salon
Regular’s tipWeekdays in the very early evening are where it’s at if you want to treat Bar Louise like she ought to be treated: like a walk-in tapas bar of yesteryear where you simply grab a drink or two, a plate of this or that, and have a chat with whoever’s on hand. I expect this is how life was back in the Marie-Louise Salon days, too. Sure, it was about getting your hair done, but there also would have been plenty of time spent sitting around under those big UFO hairdryers shooting the breeze. Pull up a seat at the bar and pay homage.
Make it fancyOn most weekends, the kitchen puts on big paellas for lunch, which is another excuse to centre your Saturday plans in this direction. Grab a gang, bring your hunger.