NOW EXPERIENCING:Apollo Inn
Monday: 5:00 PM – 1:00 AM
Phone
(03) 9277 9727
Website
apolloinn.bar
Instagram
@apolloinn.bar

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 20 Jul 2023

By
Michael Harden


Melbourne's dimly lit Apollo Inn

An intimate, moodily lit jewel of a bar with a standout pedigree, Apollo Inn has care and quality in its DNA, evident in everything from its finely honed cocktails to the smart staff.

The setting at Apollo Inn, Melbourne
Why you goA new venture by Andrew McConnell will always set tongues wagging and hearts racing in certain sections of the community. This chef and restaurateur, for those not paying attention, has defined a particularly Melburnian style of drinking and eating for more than two decades via sophisticated design-forward, detail-oriented venues like Cumulus Inc, Supernormal, Marion and Gimlet. His latest joint is the first stand-alone bar in the stable and a textbook example of getting it right the first time. Small, dark and handsome, Apollo Inn is a cosy 30-seater on the ground level of a 1920s-era building on Flinders Lane with the ability to make you feel around 90% more sophisticated just by walking into the place. Its shadowy interiors, timber panelling, formally attired staff and stirring list of reimagined classic cocktails effortlessly whisk you to another place and time – one better than the reality on the other side of the Burgundy-curtained doorway. It’s an excellent conjuring act, offering what any civilised human being might want: a short but sweet Martini-fuelled respite from the real world.
Why you stayThere’s a distinct old-world European vibe to Apollo Inn. It’s there in the drama of the dark-hued decor – the leather banquette and bentwood barstools, the lamplight, the curvaceous timber bar with its textured stone top, the smoked-glass shades – and in the remarkable attention to detail in everything from beautiful glassware and luxe bar snacks to artfully arranged fresh flowers and the crisp uniforms and banter of the bartenders. For those not challenged by small shadowy spaces and the close proximity of fashionably dressed fellow patrons, this is the kind of bar where the conversation might go deep and the night become memorable.
The decor at Apollo Inn is old-world European in style
One of the cocktails served up at Apollo Inn
What drink to orderIf you wanted to pinpoint the inspiration behind Apollo Inn, you’d focus on European cocktail bars from the 1950s, most prominently Harry’s Bar in Venice. Given that lineage and the breadth of talent behind the bar, you’d be foolish not to drink cocktails here. For starters, the four-strong Martini menu includes a particularly fine version of the Gibson, the pickled onion-garnished drink elevated here with a splash of cucumber brine. There are other fine versions of classic cocktails (the Stinger, for instance, that unlikely combination of Cognac and crème de menthe, uses a house-made mint-flavoured liquor and is both powerful and elegant), drinks made with pricey vintage spirits and non-alcoholic cocktails, like the pretty orange blossom-perfumed Nomosa, that have been lavished with as much care and attention as their alcohol-based menu mates.
What to pair it withIt will come as no shock to anyone familiar with Andrew McConnell’s work that the bar snacks here work at a more elevated level than nuts in a bowl. This does not mean they’re overly complicated or highbrow (though you can tuck into some white sturgeon caviar if the mood strikes). Standout potato crisps and dip are on offer as well as excellent olives and spiced nuts. Still, if you’re looking for truly memorable snackage, the prawn cocktail here is worthy of your attention, as is the sublime crème caramel dessert. Made like a large tart, it sits on a glass pedestal on the bar like an edible sculpture.
The creme caramel is a highlight at Melbourne's Apollo Inn
Stylish share plates at Apollo Inn
Regular’s tipApollo Inn is both small and popular, so if you’re not fond of hanging about on Flinders Lane for a lengthy period of time, you might want to plan ahead and take advantage of the reservations system.
Make it fancyIt would be hard to pinpoint anything at Apollo Inn that’s not fancy, but there are ample opportunities to turbo-charge your evening. The wine list here is not only beautifully well-rounded with excellent examples of new- and old-world brilliance, but it also allows you to splash some cash, perhaps on a bottle of Charles Heidsieck “Champagne Charlie” Champagne for $1950 a pop. If you’re after something a little less extravagant, you might opt for a vintage French 75 cocktail, here made with 2014 Bollinger and fittingly priced at $75.
Who to takeThe close contact that such a compact space demands means you’ll want to bring someone to Apollo Inn you really want to spend time with or impress with your style and sophistication. Significant other, potential significant other, best friend, that family member you probably owe a meaningful apology to – all are great candidates for Apollo Inn dates.