What to pair it withThe chefs subscribe to the same alt-coastal thinking as the bartenders. Like any self-respecting beach bar, Al Lupo has squid on the menu, only here it’s dressed with XO sauce (a spicy Asian condiment made, resourcefully, with salami offcuts) and dotted with Thai basil leaves. Elsewhere, plump steamed mussels are a smart addition to a hearty chickpea braise. The cooking is sharp and the menu is deep enough to make Al Lupo a destination for eaters as well as drinkers. Still, the kitchen can also play it casual. The signature hot dog starring an oversized lamb sausage protruding out of a soft white bun is perfect one-handed snacking. You’ll want an order of the house focaccia, too – the perfect thing for mopping up sauces.
