Everything you need to know about this incredible region, its history, signature wines and where to find them.
Three hours south of Perth, Margaret River was once a hidden oasis, occupied by dairy farmers and surfers. It is only relatively recently that Margaret River’s potential as a wine region was recognised. In the 1950s and ’60s, agricultural scientists Harold Olmo and John Gladstones deemed its marked maritime climate, cool temperatures and rich variety of soils ideal for growing high-quality grapes. After that, things moved fast.
When the vines arrived, they were pioneered in the classic Australian fashion: by doctors. The first commercial vineyard was planted in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity at Vasse Felix, where the original cabernet sauvignon and malbec plantings still grow today. Over the following decade, vineyards quickly sprang up across the region, including at Leeuwin Estate, Cullen, Moss Wood and Voyager Estate.
Critics immediately recognised the remarkable quality of the region's wines, particularly the cabernets and chardonnays. And public recognition quickly followed when, in 1982, the second vintage of Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series Chardonnay was named “the best Chardonnay in the world” by Decanter magazine. Today, the region continues to grow and cement its international reputation for producing iconic, fine wines.
In this rugged, isolated region, wines tend to be elegant and refined, with exceptional examples across Margaret River’s signature varieties: chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc semillon blends.
Chardonnay
We’re not bragging when we say Margaret River chardonnay is world class. Okay, maybe a little bit. But the variety is such a big deal that it has its own heritage chardonnay clone. Known as the Gingin clone, it is widely planted throughout the region, and celebrated for producing wines with intense fruit concentration, complex flavours and mineral acidity. It's common for Margaret River winemakers to produce richer, riper styles of chardonnay, providing a contrast to leaner, cool-climate styles from Tassie, Mornington and the Yarra Valley.
Cabernet sauvignon
Cabernet sauvignon is the hero variety for many in Margaret River, and almost every wine producer here makes one. Climatically, the region has a lot in common with Bordeaux, cabernet’s spiritual home, so it’s not surprising this variety thrives in Margs. Often blended with other red varieties, these cabernets tend to be medium- to full-bodied with richer flavours and a more rounded texture than that of Coonawarra – another of Australia’s equally famous cabernet-producing regions. On the palate, these wines are characterised by red currant and cassis fruit characters, along with savoury pops of bay leaf and eucalypt. The best examples display a good balance of fruit ripeness, acidity and defined tannin structure, and are suited to long-term cellaring.
Sauvignon blanc semillon blends (SBS or SSB)
Okay, technically two grapes, but this classic white blend is one of Margaret River’s signature styles that helped put the region on the wine map. Like cabernet, the sauvignon blanc semillon blend – SBS for short, or SSB when it’s semillon-dominant – also has its origins in Bordeaux. Like macaroni and cheese, these two varieties are made for each other, with semillon contributing flavour and roundness to balance sauvignon’s more austere, savoury character. Vibrant, fruit-forward and crisp, these Margaret River blends typically show tropical fruit, zesty citrus notes and herbal, grassy tones with clean, refreshing acidity that make them fantastic food wines.
Margaret River is also home to many boutique producers, crafting small quantities of stellar wine. This is where you’ll find hidden gems and innovative wines from passionate, hands-on winemakers. It gives you a different appreciation for the region and is a great reminder that there’s more than one way to make wine. Some of these releases are made in such small batches they’re only available to taste and buy through an estate’s cellar door – just one of countless reasons to visit this amazing region.
At smaller estates, it’s all hands on deck, and you’ll often find the winemaker in the cellar door, ready to take you into the vineyard to see where the magic happens. There are so many awesome boutique producers coming onto the scene, but if you’re after a couple of names to visit when you’re in Margaret River, don’t miss South by SouthWest or rising star LS Merchants. For more established operations turning out quality wines, be sure to also add the likes of Cherubino and Stella Bella to your list. But truthfully, it’s hard to go wrong in this magical part of the world, where an abiding passion for wine and nature is present wherever you go.
