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Does shiraz have to be big, bold and in your face?


Read time 5 Mins

Posted 20 Jun 2024

By
Alexandra Whiting


Holding a glass of red wine

A new wave of producers is embracing the lighter side of this classic red.

Let us preface this by saying we love a classic, big shiraz. Give us a long Sunday lunch by an open fire, good company and a few bottles of Barossa’s best, and we’re in heaven. However, if you live in a world where fireside long lunches are few and far between, you may be keeping shiraz on the shelf. 

Historically, shiraz has felt like a wine variety you need to commit to in order to enjoy, like a David Fincher film, or build up to it with a pinot noir or rosé first. But recently, producers have been broadening the shiraz horizons and experimenting with styles that are, shall we say, non-committal. They are the kind you can dip in and out of, have just a glass after work, or pour to accompany your quick dinner catch-up with your VB (very busy) bestie. 

These new-wave styles of shiraz have all the guts and hallmark traits of a traditional shiraz (or syrah, which is the same grape) — there’s no mistaking what variety it is — but they are lighter, fresher and decidedly more medium bodied. These adjustments are helping to make shiraz more approachable, as well as more food-friendly and drinkable, all while keeping all those same flavours you want from the variety.

These emerging styles aren’t just coming from cutting-edge producers in cool climates, either. Even some Barossa producers are pulling back on the more traditional, robust styles and fine-tuning things. Shiraz can be so much more than what your dad thinks it is, and the following seven wines more than make this case.

The Fallen Giants Serra Range Shiraz is from the Grampians in Victoria

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1. The massive-deal shiraz

Its name is Fallen Giants Serra Range Shiraz and it’s a massive deal. Why? Because the 2019 release won the 2021 Jimmy Watson trophy; low-key the most prestigious and sought-after award in Australian wine, recognising the best red that’s just one or two years old. A family-owned producer in Victoria’s Grampians, Fallen Giants is focused on organic farming and detail rather than volume. Their Serra Range Shiraz is a stellar example of the fruits of their labour – literally. It’s elegant and medium bodied with hints of dark cherry, pepper and spice, like baharat. There’s oak, but it plays a supporting role and is pretty far down the call sheet, so this drop really hits that balance between depth of flavour and approachability.

2. The cross-over shiraz

Giant Steps is one of Australia’s top pinot noir producers right now – if not the top. If you’ve tried one of their pinots before, you may have noticed how very drinkable it is, but you might not know they also make serious shiraz in a similar vein. The Giant Steps Syrah has big upfront flavour, a bit of pepper and spice, but not with the weight that can make other shiraz feel heavy or less ideal with food. This is an incredibly good drink-now Yarra Valley drop. 
Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley makes lovely soft, spiced shiraz

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The Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz is known as one of the best examples of cool-climate shiraz

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3. The teacher’s-pet shiraz

Another one from the Yarra Valley, the Yarra Yering Underhill Shiraz is known as one of the best examples of cool-climate shiraz, coming from the much-celebrated winery helmed by superstar winemaker Sarah Crowe. This wine is applauded because it’s just so good in its youth, which is typical of cool-climate shiraz, but this one is especially so. The higher price tag comes from the meticulous crafting that goes into it. The grapes are handpicked from an eight-acre block that was planted in 1973, then fermented whole and matured for a year in French barrels. It’s full bodied but delicate and aromatic with notes of licorice and violet.

4. The Barossa-disruptor shiraz

Head Wines is an independent, modern Barossa producer making fresh, elegant wines that break the mould. Forget the region’s reputation for big, jammy reds; with this one, winemaker Alex Head is going for “better, not bigger”. While the Head Blonde Shiraz is full-bodied in terms of extract and alcohol, it is vibrant, subtly reductive, and detailed, making for effortless drinking. The limestone soils where the grapes were grown (and inspired the name) impart a certain something to its flavours of white pepper, clove, boysenberry and lilac. Head isn’t doing things by the book – they’re trying new things, experimenting and getting exciting results. It’s a journey you’ll want to be part of.
The Head Blonde Shiraz has flavours of white pepper, clove, boysenberry and lilac.

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The Lucky Cat Nouveau Shiraz is a little funky and spritzy, and perfect for chilling

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5. The chiller shiraz

Juicy, bright and with just the right amount of spice, Lucky Cat Nouveau Shiraz is a whole-bunch expression with a bit of funk behind it. The way it’s made is also pretty funky, kicking off with five days of carbonic maceration with the fermenter wrapped to keep in CO2 and  carbonic characters. Think bubbles. It’s fun and drinkable, and can handle a bit of time in the fridge if you prefer your red chilled. So, yeah, not a traditional shiraz by any means, but with one sip, you’ll feel that hallmark base and full flavour, and know it can’t be anything else.

6. The SA-darling shiraz

The Seven Eves Whole Bunch Syrah left the Adelaide Hills Wine Show in 2022 with a hat-trick of medals for Best Shiraz, Best Red Wine and Best Wine. She cleaned up! This spicy, fresh and crunchy syrah can only be described as a magical drinking experience. It’s made from sustainably grown organic grapes on Saint-Clar Vineyards in Macclesfield, slowly ripening in cool conditions. There’s naturally high acidity, big aromatics and moreish flavour. It’s definitely a lighter, new-age shiraz, but gosh, it’s also something special.
The Seven Eves Whole Bunch Syrah has won a swag of wine show awards

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Hither & Yon Shiraz is a soft, juicy style of shiraz

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7. The working-week shiraz

If you found a magic lamp, rubbed it and told the genie who popped out that you wished for a shiraz that’s perfect for a Tuesday night, this is the bottle they’d conjure up. Poof! Hither & Yon Shiraz is a soft, juicy style with dark florals and sweet spice, along with bold flavour, deep colour and aromas, but it’s altogether more approachable. This is decidedly medium bodied and a perfect pairing with your spaghetti bolognese or Real Housewives viewing – or both. Delightfully reserved and tactful, this is a wine you’d trust to do your taxes.
Enough shiraz in your life? For other wines that are similar in a range of ways, check out our ideas on five other top styles to try  
image credits: Shelley Horan (photography), Bridget Wald (styling).