According to three hospo stars in Europe (and Instagram).
Were your social feeds packed with Spritzes this winter? You know the posts – wine glasses filled with pretty-hued drinks held up against dreamy European backgrounds (cue all those Italian beaches). If that was the case, you’ve probably already spotted the Hugo Spritz. And if you were one of the lucky travellers who sipped on this elderflower cocktail across Europe this summer, you’ll know this drink is a major thing. Our prediction? We’ll see it turn up over here in a big way this season. Bring on all that floral, spritzy goodness (and even more Spritz pics, no doubt).
Here in Australia, we often follow the drinks trends of Europe. That may be because people nostalgically order the drinks from their travels and others catch on, or perhaps savvy operators simply understand that Europe’s big hits have universal appeal. Whatever the case, we can safely look to the northern hemisphere to see what we might be drinking this summer. So, to get the jump on what’s heading our way, we ask top bar stars from Rome, Athens and London to tell us about the most popular drinks they served (and drank) over their summer just gone.
Livio Morena is the Bar Manager at Rome’s Drink Kong, which claimed the number-21 spot in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023. This cocktail, wine and sake destination is a neon-lit wonderland that takes its cues from ’70s futurism, King Kong and Japanese influences. It’s an out-there combo, but it works, and the cocktail menu is particularly inspired in both its offerings and design.
It’s no surprise that Livio says the most popular mixed drinks during summer were fresh, easy-drinking options. “But one difference this year has been the ascent of low-ABV and alcohol-free cocktails,” he says. When it comes to wines, aromatic styles have been the major sellers. “And a special mention goes to natural and orange wines,” he says.
Reflecting on their recent biggest movers, Livio says sparkling wine and sparkling-based cocktails have risen in popularity. He suggests this may come down to the focus on lower ABVs and more people wanting to drink responsibly, as these drinks often have less alcohol content than traditional spirit-based cocktails. Livio adds that it also ties into how he’s noticed people are paring things back across the board. “They want drinks that are nice and easy – not complicated and not too boozy.”
If we were to follow Livio’s lead on what to drink this summer, it would be all about Margs, Daiquiris and Caipirinhas, but he also suggests keeping things super-simple with Collins-style cocktails and Highballs.
In its central Athens townhouse setting, enticing neighbourhood bar The Clumsies clocked in at number 47 in The World’s 50 Best Bars 2023. The awards also honoured them with the Legend of the List Award, which goes to the bar that’s performed most consistently since its launch. Bar Manager Georgia Georgakopoulou explains their key focus is cocktails, although they do serve wine and beer, too. The venue also offers dishes that go from day to night (from pancakes and eggs to tacos with gyros) – much like the venue itself.
As Georgia tells it, cocktails with tequila and rum at their core were the big hits of summer. “Every season is different, and we always have best-sellers, but after Covid, the top-selling spirit has been tequila – it used to be gin,” she says. “Agave spirits are loved like crazy, so, like last year, the hit of summer was a cocktail we call Going Down the Rabbit Hole, which is a twist on the Paloma with mezcal. It sells like crazy!”
While people don’t necessarily visit The Clumsies just for a glass of wine, Georgia says dry whites have been their top-selling style for about six years. And beyond all those requests for drinks using rum and agave spirits, many people are loving sweet and sour cocktails, which builds on a demand they saw last year. “In summer, it’s especially about the sweet and sour cocktails that are fresh,” she says.
Georgia’s personal summer cocktail hit list looks a lot like Livio’s – Margaritas and Daiquiris, and Mojitos, too. But for Georgia, nothing beats a Gin and Tonic, Vermouth and Tonic, or that old favourite, the Negroni.
Aussie ex-pat Victoria Sharples has worked in the wine industry for many years, including importing Australian wine into the UK. Until earlier this year, she ran her own London wine bar called Swain’s and now consults to venues between wine-buying trips to the likes of Greece, Tuscany, Alsace and Rioja.
One trend Victoria’s seen grow in recent years is the move to chilled reds. This follows the dominance of pale and dry rosés – “particularly with the likes of Whispering Angel, which has cornered the market,” Victoria says. “And while a lot of rosé is consumed as an easy drink, there’s a growing interest in rosé with food that extends into cooler months.”
Newer wine styles doing the rounds in London include the Italian white gavi – made from cortese in Piedmont – and France’s picpoul. This may be behind the drop in demand for pinot grigio, which Victoria says has been a surprise. And a recent push for lesser-known wine regions in the EU means Greek and Eastern European wines are among those turning up on more London lists.
Spritzes remain the big summer sellers, but Victoria says textural whites are also on the rise. “There’s a growing interest in white blends from the Rhône in France and Spain’s Rioja, and richer, oaky chardonnay seems to have a bit of a sleeper-hit status,” she says.
As for her own summer favourite, it’s the artichoke-flavoured amaro Cynar (yep, you read that right). “Serve it as a Spritz with prosecco – forget any soda!” Victoria says. And her top tip for finding the best summer wines? Look to the regions with hot weather and see what they drink – Victoria loves Greece’s top-value assyrtiko and malagouzia, and the increasingly textural, elegant whites made from viura in Rioja.
