NOW EXPERIENCING:Big, buttery chardonnay is back, baby!
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Big, buttery chardonnay is back, baby!


Read time 3 Mins

Posted 30 Nov 2023

By
Emily Reed


A line-up of five bottles of buttery-style chardonnays

After being cancelled in the ’90s, bold, rich chardonnay is back – with more balance and less butter bomb.

It rose to fame in the ’80s before it flew too close to the buttery sun – then it had a negative acronym named after it when people collectively decided they didn’t want to drink it anymore (it’s ABC, but more on that later). Geez, you’d hate to be chardonnay’s PR person, wouldn’t you? It’s been one heck of a wild ride for one of the world’s most complex and divisive drops; one day rich, buttery chardonnay is it and a bit, the next you have to hide behind your drinks menu to order it. But the days of hiding your affinity for chardy are behind us! We say an emphatic ‘yes’ to the resurgence of big, bold and oh-so-buttery chardonnay. Today, these styles are full of flavour yet super balanced – and it makes us want to listen to A-ha’s ‘Take On Me’ and pronounce it ‘cardonnay’ while we enjoy a glass.
The ’80s chardy

Before we give you a cheeky chardonnay history lesson, it’s worth mentioning this variety can be found in every global winemaking region, and is the fifth most planted grape – there’s around 198,000 hectares planted around the world, so yeah, it’s kind of a big deal. 

A big, buttery chardonnay wasn’t just acceptable in the ’80s, it was practically all anyone drank. These styles were typically made in California, but Australian producers also nailed these rich, golden wines at the time. ‘A glass of chardonnay, thanks’ was the order of the day – it offered aroma, colour and flavours that were not only recognisable but also easy to drink. Chardy during this era was really designed to get the masses drinking wine – even if you weren’t the biggest wine fan, it was approachable and enjoyable. With so many people drinking it, chardonnay production became seriously big business; huge multinational wine conglomerates flooded the market with affordable bottles. 

Glasses of white wines with a plate of beans
Then came ‘ABC’ (Anything But Chardonnay)Ouch! Dark times for old mate chardy. In the ’90s, this classic style fell out of fashion – suddenly it was too heavy-handed on the oak front, had boosted alcohol levels and overripe fruit leading to zero acidity, with some winemakers letting the quality drop to meet demand. Like a lot of things that gain huge success, what comes up must come down, and there was inevitable backlash. Wine drinkers grew tired of overly oaked and butter bomb-style chardy at every restaurant, bar and bottle shop at the time. At this point, people moved toward crisper wines; it's no coincidence that fresh, zippy sauvignon blanc became the next big wine thing. Consumers started a ‘revolution’ against chardonnay, and the unofficial club of ‘Anything But Chardonnay’ (also known as ‘Anything Beyond Chardonnay’) was born.
Big, buttery chardy is back, baby!To be honest, it never really went away, despite the influx of much leaner, more austere styles, especially here in Australia, which almost swung too far the other way. While there’s no denying many people still steer clear of chardonnays akin to those of its oaky, buttery heyday, there’s a time and a place for these great wines – and that’s right now, in our humble opinion. Don’t expect the typical butter-bombs of days gone by, though – you can still hit the right balance when it comes to bold, oaky chardies – and some of our favourite picks are further down.
Why so buttery?You might often hear the words ‘buttery chardonnay’ and malolactic fermentation (AKA malo or mlf) in the same sentence. That’s because it’s a quality that’s introduced by this winemaking technique. It involves a type of bacteria converting the wine’s malic acid – the tartness naturally present in grapes – into lactic acid. The process basically converts harsh, tart acid into soft, creamy acid.   

How long a chardonnay is aged for and what it’s aged in also contribute to its degree of butteriness in both flavour and texture. Vessels made of oak can lead to richer flavours like vanilla and spices, while stainless steel or concrete tanks can help preserve the fresh, lean and crisp flavours in some chardonnay grapes – a clear contrast to the richer styles associated with the varietal.
Food for thoughtHowever you like it, chardonnay is a fantastic wine for creamy cheeses – brie and camembert especially – as it’s going to either give you a complementary pairing (with those buttery notes from mlf) or a contrasting pairing with citrus and acidity that’ll refresh your palate between each bite. Chardy also goes down an absolute treat with a classic carbonara dish – take note!

Nine buttery yet balanced chardonnays we’re loving

1. Woodbridge Chardonnay 
Peach and toasty tropical flavours are at the core of this clean and crisp yet  buttery Californian chardonnay, which is made for pairing with hearty dishes. 

2. The Butchers Friend Buttery Chardonnay
With the key descriptor in this wine’s name, you know you’re in for a rich treat here. This classic Barossa chardy is creamy and generous, with peach, melon and nectarine flavours. 

3. Locatour Chardonnay
A recent arrival from California (it landed in Australia in Jan), this is silky smooth, full bodied and rich with toasty flavours that you’ll really want to savour and enjoy. 

A bottle of the Woodbridge Chardonnay

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The Tony Bish Fat & Sassy Chardonnay is made in a big style

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4. Tony Bish Fat & Sassy Chardonnay
Unashamedly full-bodied, this chardonnay from Hawke’s Bay in NZ has bright aromas, citrus flavours and spicy oak notes, which all balance out the creamy, nutty palate.   

5. Domaine Astruc Aoc Chardonnay
All the way from Limoux in France, this is bright gold in colour, with rich hazelnut and cashew notes from its time in oak, and a crisp acidity keeps all that fullness in check. 

6. Evans & Tate Butterball Chardonnay
From Margaret River, this chardy has bold flavours and a lingering finish, but it remains in total harmony from the first to the last sip thanks to toasty notes adding complexity.

7. Elephant in the Room Buttery Chardonnay 
With ripe melon and stone fruit flavours, and soft butter and toast characters, this creamy chardy is the perfect pick for those who love riper wine styles. A white wine for the red-wine lover, perhaps. 

8. Robert Mondavi Private Selection Buttery Chardonnay 
Another one that does what it says on the tin (or label), this creamy Californian classic has rich flavours of apple and white peach. A dream with carbonara, roast chicken and even grilled salmon.   

9. La Crema Monterey Chardonnay
Enjoy this while you watch an episode or two of Big Little Lies (Monterey, get it?). Tropical flavours shine in this dry, medium-bodied chardy with minerality on the palate. 

The Elephant in the Room Buttery Chardonnay from South Australia

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