The former MasterChef sensation blesses us with the best pubs and wine bars to honour the ritual of a day drink in Melbourne’s Northside.
“As I get older,” says Conor Curran (who’s aware that 30 isn't exactly one foot in the grave), “I have a deeper appreciation for the day drink. The one where you might even make it home to cook dinner, opposed to the events of yesteryear, which may have turned into a 2am boogie at Sircuit by accident.”
A glass of merlot because the winter sun is hitting just right, or a quiet beer while attempting crossword in the paper, are the kind of drinks that fills Conor’s Sunday cup. And these are best served in a certain style of venue. “A wine bar that feels more like a warm blanket than an industrial-fitted boozer or a neighbourhood pub that has a pool table an arm’s-reach away,” he says.
Luckily, Conor lives on the doorstep of pub perfection. “I grew up in Clifton Hill, so I will always be a Northside kid. I love how the area is pretentiously unpretentious.” Despite spending time in London, the birthplace of pub culture, he reckons Melbourne does pubs better than anywhere else in the world. “We took a simple concept and just elevated it, without making it uncomfortable and keeping the vibe,” he says.
That said, Conor has tough criteria for the Melbourne pubs he frequents. “Approachable, comforting food menu, a diverse and interesting wine list, and a great selection of beers that venture from Kolsch lightness to heavy porters from local breweries.” He also needs versatility of environment to accommodate the rollercoaster of the city’s weather. “A fireplace in winter and outdoor space for summer,” he says. “This is Melbourne, and we want it all.”
One pub that ticks all the boxes is Fitzroy’s Marquis Of Lorne. “A fireplace and footy in winter, and sunshine and people overflowing to the footpath in summer.” Each floor of this beloved neighbourhood pub offers a different experience. “The ground floor for casual and cosy, but if you want more of a sit-down table-service evening, hit the middle floor. And if it’s a lively outdoor group vibe you want, head to the rooftop.” Locals pack every floor of this favourite (“as they should”) so Conor’s tip is to go early. Oh, and order the potato cakes – “a serve for yourself and an extra serve for the table.” You won’t want to share.
Rounding out his selection, Conor can’t go past Builder’s Arms as an exceptional example of a Melbourne pub. “Think of the nicest pub you’ve ever been to, and times that by two,” Conor says. Part-owned by restaurant royalty Andrew McConnell (of Gimlet, Marion and Supernormal, among others), this place is all about world-class service and quality. “Not thrown in your face, but everything is just seamless. So take your time, there are always some hospo heavyweights manning the bar and kitchen, so bask in the service.” Here, Conor can’t go past the fish pie – “rain, hail or shine.” And he especially favours this gorgeous corner pub in summer, when he and a friend grab a spot in the courtyard, and indulge in the sunshine and exceptional wine list.
Can’t wait for the weekend? Ditto. Clued up with Conor’s local knowledge, may we all swap the Sunday scaries for Sunday suppers in the best of Northside hospitality.