NOW EXPERIENCING:Marquis of Lorne

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 15 Jun 2022

By
Michael Harry


This much-loved backstreet pub is a clubhouse of inner-northside cool, regularly packed with colourful characters and fuelled by craft beer, natural-leaning wine and next-level food.

Indoor seating of Marquis of Lorne
Why you goAsk just about anyone living in the inner north, and they’ll have a story about the Marquis of Lorne. It’s one of those handsome pubs in the backstreets of Fitzroy, standing among artists’ terraces and coveted warehouse apartments. The three-level venue has plenty of creaks and leaks, but nobody would change a thing about it. A cool and creative clientele meet here for pints of craft beer and excellent pub grub. Many great big nights have started here, and it offers just what you’re after in a classic Melbourne local – chilled drinks, that great food, and atmosphere to burn.
Why you stayThe Marquis was built in 1873 and has been pulling pots and slinging schnitzels for almost 150 years. The most recent owners rescued the place from disrepair and turned it into one of the most happening pubs in Fitzroy. The crowd sets the trend with ironic haircuts and the latest ’90s-channelling fashion, and noise levels can reach fever pitch as the music gets turned up. Tables and benches line the footpath outside, and the tiled front bar is frozen in time, with high benches and stools, brick walls and an open fireplace. Take the steep staircase to the dining room on the first floor, with bustling open kitchen and bentwood chairs, or keep climbing to the rooftop where you’ll find two open decks, a second bar, and one of the city’s best spots to soak up the sunset.
Outdoor seating at Marquis of Lorne
Seating at Marquis of Lorne
What drink to orderBeer is taken seriously here, with a rotating selection of brews on tap. Many are made in the area, including Bodriggy, Stomping Ground, Moon Dog and the ever-dependable Carlton Draught, available by the pot, pint or jug. Also recommended are two beers from New Zealand outfit Sure Brewing – an easy-going lager or a bright and bitter West Coast IPA. It’s not really the place for elaborate cocktails, but chilled-out bar staff will mix you anything, from a Negroni to a Manhattan. The wine list is hard-working and pleasingly compact – just two pages of fun options. Most bottles are priced under $100, and categories include “fizz”, “skin contact” and “chilled red”, ranging from nearby (perhaps a Latta Vino “Wildwest” red blend from Ballarat winemaker Owen Latta) to further afield (such as the lean and minerally Bonnet-Huteau muscadet from the Loire Valley).
What to pair it with The food offering is far from your standard counter meal, and delivers a handful of bangers, many with a cult following. It’s hard to go past the textbook chicken schnitzel, juicy and golden with a bright, vinegary cabbage slaw and humming salsa verde, a green sauce of herbs and garlic. You’ll need to order chips separately, but they’re some of the best you’ll eat: thick, fluffy, crunchy, expertly salted, with a generous pot of aïoli for dipping. Other heroes include perfect potato cakes with chilli salt, or a ripper rockling burger with buttery brioche. But there are also smarter-than-your-average options to appease the clientele, such as king trout pastrami with kohlrabi mayonnaise and confit duck leg with creamy potato gratin.
Indoor seating at Marquis of Lorne
Marquis of Lorne interiors
Why we love itDepending on when you drop in, you might find sport on the TV, great music blasting from the speakers, and groups of party-friendly folks having a roaring good time. Tuesday is steak night – a beautifully charred slab of beef drenched in rich Béarnaise sauce with those chips and a well-dressed salad is served from 5pm for $20. Sunday lunch offers a roast from midday – perhaps black-pepper brisket with potato salad and house-made barbecue sauce.
Regular’s tipTucked around the corner behind the bar on the ground floor is a wonderful private saloon with original stained-glass window, and a low-lit table for 12 sealed off from the hubbub of the pub. Great for groups and planning the revolution, it’s a hidden gem.
Don’t leave withoutMaking the climb to the bar on the top floor, which has a bath of ice rammed with glistening tinnies of interesting beer, such as a German-style pilsner from Bright Brewery.
Who to takeMates, dates, big groups, or just go for a pint on your own. This place is open to all, but especially anyone in a band or with a podcast.
Marquis of Lorne interiors