NOW EXPERIENCING:Goldy’s! Tavern

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 14 Apr 2023

By
Michael Harden


While keeping the old-school local pub vibe alive, Goldy’s also keeps things modern with quality food, quality drinks and a relaxed but attentive attitude.

Why you goThe Feinster Arms, the 150-year-old pub in a Collingwood backstreet that once counted Chopper Read as a regular, has been transformed into Goldy’s! Tavern. It’s a textbook example of how to modernise an old-school backstreet pub without losing any of its old-school backstreet charm. Goldy’s! offers the classic joys of beer, parma and beer garden, but has updated the quality of the ingredients and the labels to suit a neighbourhood filled with locals who know their saisons from their IPAs and might be particular about the brand of gin in their G&T. The approach appeals to a wide range of demographics, from families having an early dinner, the offspring tucking into chicken and chips or tomato pasta from the kids’ menu while the parents wash down cheeseburgers (regular or vegan) with a pint of local craft beer or a glass of natural pinot grigio to young folk shooting pool in the front bar over cocktails. Meanwhile, groups of friends gather in the beer garden out the back or take advantage of the spacious street-side seating that runs along both sides of the corner pub. Goldy’s! is off all of the main Collingwood drags too so it has a peaceful vibe, conducive to long, winding conversations about how good old school pubs can be.
Why you stayWith the décor dial set to slightly daggy kitsch (lots of timber and exposed brick, op-shop art and flying ducks on the wall, ’60s-era couches, a photo display in one of the dining rooms of all the pub’s favourite dogs) Goldy’s is all about comfort and familiarity. The service style goes the same way – friendly, relaxed, and unpretentious but with staff well versed in both food and drinks list and happy to talk you through what’s good on tap (maybe a Celtic red ale from Bridge Road brewers), in a can (a no-alcohol XPA from Heaps Normal) or on the wine list (an Italian prosecco). The heritage building is like a rabbit warren, with more places to sit wherever you go, perhaps under hanging ferns in the beer garden, in front of the fireplace in one of the front rooms or on a wooden pew as you wait for your turn on the pool table. Whichever option you choose, the chilled vibe remains the same, making Goldy’s! one of those places you turn to when all you feel like is a beer with mates at the pub.
view of a balcony
What drink to orderThere’s a wide variety of drinking to be had at Goldy’s!, whether you’re after something straightforward like a Carlton Draught, want to funk it up a bit with a pink Tasmanian “pet-nat” (a naturally sparkling wine) or are interested in trying some of the latest in canned seltzers, like the Temple Shikuwaza Ginger Seltzer that’s made in nearby Brunswick. What’s a little more surprising, given the old pub feel of the joint, is that they’re pretty good when it comes to cocktails too. The “Yeah, Nah, Yeah Spritz”, for example combines amaro (from Australian maker Økar) with peach, gentian (a bittersweet liqueur), sparkling wine and soda and is both bracing and refreshing while the ACCADACCA is an excellent mocktail that combines Seedlip Garden (a no-alcoholic gin-like spirit) with flavours of apple, fennel, lemon and pomegranate.
What to pair it withThe snacks run to the likes of pub favourites such as chicken schnitzel, a perfectly retro steak Diane with “chippies” and sticky date pudding before moving to less familiar but similarly tasty territory with a kangaroo souvlaki, warm spinach and artichoke dip or delicious flatbread served with labne, a yoghurt dip. There are good oysters too, and for those wanting to ride the nostalgia bus to the final stop, Goldy’s! does a rather good house version of the mighty Chiko Roll.