NOW EXPERIENCING:The Pantry Manly

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Posted 05 Feb 2025

By
Alexandra Carlton


The stunning beachside location for the Pantry Manly, a former beach kiosk

With the waterline so close you can practically touch it, you won’t find many worthy restaurants with views like this. And the wine list isn’t bad, either.

Two glasses of wine on the railing at Manly Beach's The Pantry
Why you go“Where’s somewhere I can go to eat that has knockout views, but won’t shred my wallet into confetti?” is a version of a question out-of-towners ask Sydneysiders endlessly. And the answer is often a little deflating. Generally, if you want an eyeful of harbour or coastline with lunch or dinner you’ll pay dearly for the privilege. The Pantry Manly, which was formerly a beach kiosk, is one of the few exceptions. “Knockout” doesn’t really begin to describe the outlook. If you manage to snag one of the tables near the window, you’ll be treated to a point-to-point view of Manly Beach. There’ll be surfers catching waves, families playing on the sand and, if you’re there around autumn and winter, whales making their annual migration up and down the coast. Get a glass of chardonnay or prosecco into your hand, order a few rounds of oysters and zucchini flowers, and you’ll soon see you’ve found that great Australian white whale: the well-priced waterfront bolthole.
What drink to orderThe cocktails are a smidge on the sweet and sticky side (even a house-blend Negroni could do with a bit of a rebalance on the sugar-to-bitterness ratio), but if sugar is your jam, you’ll be well served. If not, there’s a properly excellent wine list, pulling from some of the most reliably high-quality big names from Australia and beyond. The by-the-glass list is compact, but you still have access to Vasse Felix Chardonnay, Tim Adams Pinot Gris and Devil’s Staircase Pinot Noir from New Zealand. The bottled picks include Orange’s Nashdale Lane Fumé Blanc and Montalto Pinot Gris. There’s also a bold cellar list of big reds if all that wave action outside the windows has inspired you to splash out: think Jim Barry McRae Wood Shiraz, Ata Rangi Pinot Noir from New Zealand, and Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Shiraz, which will all set you back three figures.
Three cocktails from the list at The Pantry in Manly, Sydney
Some of the dishes on offer at The Pantry in Manly
What to eatThe food comes in three formats: à la carte, shared tapas, and an option of two set menus ($61 for two courses, $93 for three). Of all of it, the mini wagyu burgers are probably the high point, juiced up with green tomato marmalade and truffle pecorino.
Why we love itIt’s open for three meals a day, seven days a week so there’s never a bad time to pop in and take advantage of this prime position. The breakfast menu isn’t reinventing the wheel, but features many beachy bangers including buttermilk pancakes and generous veg and non-veg breakfast boards. Add a $13 Mimosa and you’ve found a very nice way to start the day.
Who to takeSadly, here is where you must make a cruel choice. Bring a big group and you’ll have a fabulous time – a lot of the food here begs to be shared – but you’ll be relegated to the centre of the room, and therefore beyond the sightlines for those bolt-of-blue sea views. The only tables that will reward you with those are two-seaters along the window, so if the view is the cue that’s luring you in, you’d best only bring a significant other if you want to enjoy them to the full.