NOW EXPERIENCING:The Agrarian Kitchen

Read time 2 Mins

Posted 30 Mar 2023

By
Alix Clark


It’s a garden party at the Agrarian Kitchen where nearly all the produce is grown on site to be enjoyed over a leisurely lunch with a hyper-local list of intriguing wines and ales.

Delicious and fresh food at The Agrarian Kitchen
Why you goPaddock-to-plate dining is taken to glorious heights at the Agrarian Kitchen, where all the fresh produce comes from the perfectly maintained walled garden just steps from the kitchen or hyperlocal producers. Cheeses are made in-house, as are cured meats, pickles and preserves. It’s idyllic country living on a plate, with a commitment to local produce that extends to the intriguing drinks list.
Why you stayHoused in a former ward of Willow Court, an old mental-health asylum 30 minutes’ drive from Hobart, the Agrarian Kitchen is an eclectic mix of original linoleum floors, modern light fittings and furniture, high ceilings and square-paned windows. Lunch is a set menu of 12 to 13 dishes that changes weekly and might start with a plump angasi oyster topped with cucumber vinegar and a scattering of dill, lead on to tender roast lamb with a side of charred cabbage, and finish with a tangy cherry and buttermilk gelato. 
The Agrarian Kitchen interiors
Drinks at The Agrarian Kitchen
What drink to orderMake lunch life easy and opt for the paired drinks list that changes frequently to match the set menu. You can either stick with local craft beer and wines, go for the alcohol-free list, or request a mixture of the two.
Why we love it

The sustainable and local drinks philosophy matches that of the food, with the majority coming from Tasmania. The extensive wine list includes well-priced bottles along with more premium offerings such as a 2020 Sailor Seeks Horse Chardonnay from the Huon Valley, a multi-region, all-Tassie 2021 Marco Lubiana Pinot Noir, and a list of crisp options by the glass. 

Be surprised by the Forester Ale from nearby brewery Two Metre Tall or enjoy a pre-lunch Raspberry Tonique cocktail made with local absinthe. Alcohol-free options are created in-house with produce picked from the garden, foraged nearby or provided by locals before being juiced, brewed and fermented to create concoctions every bit as satisfying as the alcoholic list. Mocktails may include an infusion of pine needle, Meyer lemon and lemon leaf or a beetroot, thyme and cherry kombucha.

Regular’s tipThe set menu is more than enough food for lunch, but we’d recommend adding the cheese course regardless – all made in-house and well worth a little belt-loosening.
Food and drinks pairing at The Agrarian Kitchen, Australia
The Agrarian Kitchen store
Don’t leave withoutAllow time to visit some of the stores in New Norfolk. The Drill Hall Emporium has a beautifully considered selection of European antiques. Next door, Miss Arthur sells homewares that make housework seem desirable, and the Black Swan Bookshop holds a broad collection of fiction, non-fiction and lust-worthy coffee-table books. Around the corner, Flywheel sells a dizzying array of swoony stationery, pens, stamps and journals. If your visit to New Norfolk is a flying one, pick up some food on the run from the Agrarian Kitchen’s kiosk to eat in the grassy front yard or as part of a picnic.
Make it fancySure, there’s the picturesque setting, the fresher-than-fresh food and an intriguing drinks list, but the Agrarian Kitchen also offers the opportunity to take the experience one step further with a full-day cooking class. This is your chance to pick your own vegetables (and talk compost with one of the full-time gardeners) and then cook an elegant long-table lunch with 11 other students under the instruction of chef-owner Rodney Dunn. The purpose-built kitchen classroom has well-equipped prep stations for everyone, numerous ovens, access to the restaurant’s larder, and a vast, open wood-fired grill. A typical menu could include dolma made of silverbeet leaves stuffed with cracked wheat, or roast pork belly rolled with a fresh herb paste, perhaps handmade mozzarella cheese served over garden greens and Meyer lemon, and a brown-sugar pavlova to finish. Specialty classes include cheesemaking, fermentation, gardening basics or a day’s cooking with big-name guest chefs such as Ben Shewry of Melbourne’s Attica and Peter Gilmore of Quay in Sydney. It’s a wonderful way to learn new skills and recipes, and perhaps be inspired to plant a kitchen garden of your own.
Enjoy fancy and delicious food The Agrarian Kitchen
Emjoy food and drinks at The Agrarian Kitchen with friends, family or colleagues
Who to takeThe commitment to local ingredients, efficient, friendly service and the location in Tasmania’s Derwent make this a must-visit dining destination for anyone visiting Hobart as well as locals who appreciate skilfully prepared fresh produce. The set menu makes dividing the bill easy for larger groups, which means it’s perfect for a hen’s do or a birthday gathering. The kitchen can accommodate certain dietary requirements, but arrangements need to be made at the time of booking. 
image credits: Anna Critchley