NOW EXPERIENCING:Sporting Club Hotel

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 19 Jun 2024

By
Michael Harden


The exterior building of Sporting Club Hotel

The team behind the Marquis of Lorne and the Royal Oak hotels have successfully and stylishly transformed another backstreet pub into an essential local clubhouse.

A busy scene inside Melbourne's Sporting Club Hotel
Why you goUpgrading a neighbourhood pub is a delicate balancing act. Refreshing the decor and modernising the food and drink offer is a given, but so is keeping in mind the specific casual, local vibe that attracts people to pubs in the first place. The Sporting Club Hotel in Brunswick is a lesson in getting the balance right. The success is not altogether surprising. The team behind this revamp has done similarly good work with the likes of Fitzroy’s Marquis of Lorne and The Royal Oak in Fitzroy North, and they’ve taken the same approach at the Sporting Club. They’ve stepped lightly, emphasising the best parts of the building’s bones, starting with reverting to the pub’s original name (it had been the Charles Weston for a while). All the interior spaces – the excellent public bar, two dining areas, a smaller back bar – have been given a personable new look with timber panelling, stained glass, dark-coloured walls, boldly patterned carpeting and working fireplaces, while the beer garden is now equipped with its own bar and a retractable awning. The approach is both thoughtful and appealing, which could easily be the Sporting Club Hotel’s motto.
Why you stayIt may be called the Sporting Club Hotel, but sport is definitely not the focus here. There are no screens, betting facilities or framed memorabilia in sight. Instead, this hotel consciously leans into the neighbourhood-local vibe, the one where the pub is a place of relaxation rather than overstimulation. Sound levels are geared to conversation, the look is traditional and comforting, the service chatty and friendly. It’s the sort of venue you pine for after a hard day or when you don’t want to think too deeply about what to order for dinner. Craving a chicken schnitzel and a Carlton Draught? You can get those here alongside sausages and mash, three different cuts of steak and a bread-and-butter pudding. Being a pub in Melbourne’s inner north, it has diverse eating options – snapper fillets with pearl couscous and harissa, for instance, and good choices for both vegetarians and vegans – and those who like a little craft in their beer, natural in their wine and fun in their cocktails will find nothing to complain about either.
Outdoor seating at Melbourne's Sporting Club Hotel
The bar setting at Sporting Club Hotel, Melbourne
What drink to orderThe drinks list at the Sporting Club covers all the bases you’d expect from a pub in Brunswick geared to feeding and watering the local community. The wine list is a well-assembled two pages that leans towards Victorian producers, gives a noticeable nod to minimal-intervention wines and isn’t afraid to throw in a few classically made old-world wines – a German riesling here, a French grenache there – to cover as many bases as possible. The tap beer offer is solid, too, and, again, more about offering a little something for everyone than pushing a particular agenda. There are craft brews from local producers like The Mill and Stomping Ground along with stuff from the big boys, including Guinness.
What to pair it withA lot of chicken schnitzels are pumped out across the nation these days, which has made many of us connoisseurs of the form, or at least made us believe we are. Either way, we know what we like. The Sporting Club schnitzel should please even the fussiest schnitty fanatic – tender, juicy, with a good crisp crumb and served with an excellent buttermilk coleslaw and fruity-spicy bulldog sauce. Add some of their above-average fries to make yourself really happy.
A spread of dishes served up at the Sporting Club Hotel, Melbourne
The food is a drawcard at the Sporting Club Hotel in Melbourne
Regular’s tipFans of the club sandwich – that hotel staple of chicken, bacon, lettuce, tomato and mayo on toasted bread – should make a beeline for the Sporting Club Hotel at lunchtime. It’s a beauty and comes with chips.
Who to takeWho wouldn’t you take? There’s enough mood lighting and romantically retro flourishes to make this an excellent date-night venue, but you’d also be happy to bring your family here for a birthday celebration in the private dining room or roll in with a pack of mates to hang out in the beer garden. It’s a user-friendly kind of joint, in all the right ways.