NOW EXPERIENCING:Royal Oak Hotel

This charming neighbourhood joint was recently refurbed, but still feels like part of the furniture in Fitzroy North, though now with outstanding food well above the pub-grub average.

At the bar inside the Royal Oak Hotel, Fitzroy North
Why you goThere’s no shortage of pubs on the stretch of Nicholson Street in Fitzroy North that’s home to the Royal Oak Hotel. But the reason the Oak (as it’s affectionately known by locals) stands out is because of how it has managed to stand the test of time. Losing its lime-green frontage to a reno and change of hands in 2022 could’ve marked the end of an era for an old-school pub that’s been feeding and watering the community since 1871. But its most-recent custodians – also behind Melbourne pubs Marquis of Lorne, Union House and the Mount Erica Hotel, among other favourites – have kept the heart of the place very much intact. Behind the now-Burgundy façade is a regularly shoulder-to-shoulder front bar where tradies and food fiends nurse pints around a big U-shaped bar. The only-slightly-refurbed space has retained its original wall tiles and carpet, and is decked out with all things Australiana, adding to the retro charm. What has changed, though, is the food – it’s outstanding, soaring well above the pub-grub average.
What drink to orderBeer is the obvious choice, and the namesake lager, Oak, is an easy-drinking brew that leads a mostly Victorian list of tap beers. But the cocktails here are more considered and beyond the classics you’d expect from a neighbourhood joint. Take the Figaro, for instance, which is the Royal Oak’s spin on a traditional Boulevardier (like a Negroni, but made with whisky instead of gin). This wintry version combines a fig aperitif with whisky and Italy’s bittersweet Campari liqueur. Served with a single ice cube that’s topped with a slice of dehydrated fig, it balances sweet and savoury nicely, with a bitter hit from the Campari (which also gives the cocktail a colour similar to the pub’s Burgundy decor).
A range of drinks at the Royal Oak Hotel, Melbourne
Delicious food served at the Royal Oak Hotel, North Fitzroy
What to pair it withThe pubs this hospo group runs are some of the best to eat at in the city. And the Oak is just as delicious as its siblings. The usual suspects – like beautifully battered and ultra-crisp rockling with chicken-salt chips and house-made tartare sauce – are what you’ll want to come back for. But it’s worth branching out and getting a bit fancy, too. The wagyu tartare melts in your mouth and comes alongside a pile of potato crisps, while the cauliflower and Comté cheese gratin – like a potato bake – is the ultimate side dish.
Regular’s tipIn the cooler months, nothing amps up a pub’s ambience quite like a fireplace – and the Royal Oak has two. They’re both open (but screened off), wood-burning and rip-roaring. So the first question you should ask yourself when arriving, in winter at least, is this: are any of the fireside seats free? Their toastiness makes them the best in the house.
Don’t leave withoutSuss out the specials board – a vintage, timber-framed blackboard with a little lamp above it. While the core menu leaves nothing to be desired, chances are at least one of the dishes of the day will catch your attention. It could be a nostalgic prawn cocktail garnished with crisp vegetables, or a pork-and-fennel Scotch egg sitting on a plate full of mustard-spiked mayo. This is where executive chef Scott Stevenson (ex-Movida) and head chef Robbie Noble really get to flex their creative muscles.
A range of dishes at Melbourne's Royal Oak Hotel
Outdoor seating at the Royal Oak Hotel in Melbourne
Make it fancyIf you think a pub isn’t the place to splash out on expensive wine, think again. Some of the Royal Oak’s reserve, or big-ticket, vinos – like velvety Burgundy from France – are now more accessible to the average punter, thanks to the Coravin system. These handy contraptions let your bartender pour a wine without taking out the cork, preserving the rest for later. Essentially, you don’t have to fork out for the whole bottle, only a glass.
Who to takeYour four-legged friend. The Oak is proudly pup-friendly, so you’re more likely than not to encounter a very good boy or girl on your visit – if you’re lucky, maybe even the pub’s canine poster boy, Oak the Dog, who has his own Instagram account (@oak.wells). If your dog’s feeling energetic, park yourselves in the partly fenced-off outdoor area around the corner on Freeman Street; if they’re all walked out, you’re both welcome in the front bar.