A former tobacco shop gets a breath of fresh air as a locally focused bar championing small-scale up-and-coming wine producers and slinging smart traditional-with-a-twist cocktails.
Any of the tropical or traditional-with-a-twist cocktails on the list will serve you well, though Hamish and his team will happily pull any other rabbits out of their hats if you hit them up with a request. “I also do something called the Apricot Delight. You know those apricot lollies with coconut you had as a kid? It tastes like those,” he says. Just ask.
The wine list has a lot of South Australian entries, as you’d expect, with plenty of small-scale up-and-comers, much like the bar itself. Hamish tries hard to source from producers who put sustainability at the top of their business model. He has a particular soft spot for any vintages produced by Parley, an independent Adelaide Hills label from three women with CVs that read like a SA hospitality Debrett’s (between them, Jocelyn Mihalynuk, Sarah Feehan and Mel Gray have worked at Summertown Aristologist, Commune of Buttons and Gentle Folk among other fine establishments). The Parley Capitaine Chardonnay, for instance, is a lovely golden girl with plenty of acid and zing, if you can get your hands on it. The rest of the globe isn’t ignored – you’ll find interesting German and Austrian rieslings, and a scattering of soaves and chenin blancs from Italy and France, respectively.
The by-the-glass list sits at around 12 – a big call for a small bar just starting out – and includes sparkling. Beers are worth a look, with another strong SA showing, including pours from Adelaide’s Little Bang and Mismatch in the Adelaide Hills.
Take something home “for the table” – that is, if you happen to be there on one of Smokelovers’ Set the Table community days, when they team up with local artists, ceramicists and other makers to sell cute curios to fill your home with delight. Check their Instagram for info.