NOW EXPERIENCING:Randy’s

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 26 May 2023

By
David Matthews


With breezy stylings, smart snacks and a wine list geared for refreshment, Randy’s, from the crack team behind Bar Elvina, is levelling up Northern Beaches drinking.

Entrace to randy’s
Why you go

Sydney is renowned for its beaches, but not necessarily for the wealth of outstanding drinking and dining options beside them. Nor is the Northern Beaches region typically seen as being at the centre of what’s hot. The better for us, locals may say, who know perception doesn’t always line up with reality. But one thing everyone can agree on is how downright exciting it is to now have two venues in Avalon combining city smarts and sensibilities with a love of everything local, pitched at visitors and locals alike, run by sharp operators with serious smarts and experience between them. 

Those faces include Andy Emerson, who has co-owned several seminal Sydney venues (The Passage, Acme and Bar Brosé among them), and Jesse McTavish, co-founder of top Melbourne cafes Top Paddock and The Kettle Black. The pair made the move to the beaches with the launch of Bar Elvina a couple of summers ago; a breezy, beautiful upstairs wine bar with whitewashed walls and plenty of greenery that feels as at home in Sydney as it would in the Med. Now, along with Nick Musgrave, they’ve doubled up, flipping the downstairs sandwich shop Sandy’s into Randy’s, a laid-back 26-seat wine bar that doesn’t shy away from flavour – whether it’s on the plate or in the glass – offering service that feels casual but hits hard where it counts. With seats on the footpath, wines on the chalkboard, warm evenings and sunny share plates for snacking, why go? Why wouldn’t you?

Why you stayThe breezy, laid-back energy. The sun-bronzed regulars. The scent of salt in the air. With room for just 26, a seat – either inside on a blond-wood stool at the pink marble-topped bar under rattan light shades, or at one of the few footpath tables – isn’t something you give up in a second. But this isn’t a place that’s busy because it’s exclusive; it’s bustling because each and every detail is a level up on your usual. Like Negronis? Here it’s drink-of-the-moment Sbagliato, made with sparkling wine in place of the gin. Into Martinis? The Randy’s version is built on savoury, saline Oyster Shell gin from forward-thinking SA distillers Never Never and comes with the option to add an oyster on the side, or even batch it for a group. On the food front, touches like an optional side of caviar with the fried buttermilk chicken burger (a riff on a Zinger) or the Moreton Bay bug bun continue the theme of going the extra mile. The wine, meanwhile, keeps things simple, focusing on a tight list of eclectic producers who do things the slow way, with minimal intervention and maximum expression.
drinks at randy's
bar counter at randy's
What drink to orderCocktails or a Saison vermouth on ice make a fail-safe opener, but Randy’s is a wine bar above all, so look to the chalkboard menu and take your pick. If it’s hot out, that might mean a crisp chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, fermented with wild yeasts and made following organic principles. Or if the weather has closed in just a little, go for an Unkel Jurassic Red, a pinot-based blend from New Zealand with plenty of juice to it. Here with a crowd? Plump for a bottle. The list has depth and features some real cult classics from France and Germany, but keeps things simple with the categories: wines with skin contact, perhaps, or crisp and energetic whites through to juicy and robust reds. Pick the Brash Higgins CRGN from McLaren Vale (an “elegant and delicate” carignan) and you’ll see it’s listed with a snowflake emoji, meaning it can be served chilled, too. Perfect for those warm nights when the heat stays in the air long after the sun’s gone down.
What to pair it withSnacks are the order at Randy’s, and the best snacking comes in the form of seafood to suit the setting. Think Sydney rock oysters with a classic mignonette dressing, daily sashimi (it might be local kingfish, tuna or a mix of what’s fresh) with soy, pickles and a dab of sharp wasabi paste, or hand-filleted sardines served in a pool of olive oil with lemon zest and thyme for freshness and fragrance. The latter calls for something to soak up that flavour, so add some bread, which comes in the form of a fried milk bun with smoked butter. Other handhelds extend to steak tartare on mini toasts, or the bug bun or spicy fried chicken burger. Settling in? There’s usually a plate of fish on, such as coral trout with fragrant mandarin butter. Win.
Dish served at randy's
people enjoying at randy's
Why we love itA former sandwich shop, Randy’s appeal lies partly in how unassuming it is, but regulars know the operators take their drinking and dining seriously, meaning no matter how much your waiter might set a relaxed tone and be up for a chat, when it comes to business they’re always on the ball. Recommendations are spot-on, local knowledge is in full supply, and odds are if there’s something they like drinking or eating on the menu, they’ll let you know. Plus, with the canteen window opening out onto the street and the tables out front, they make the most of the beach setting and the salty breeze. The best part? They know this is a place made for dropping in and out of at will, so walking in tends to be easy, as long as you don’t mind the occasional wait.
Don’t leave withoutAs appealing as Randy’s is on its own, if you head up the stairs you’ll find yourself at the venue that started this whole thing, Bar Elvina. Here, things are a little more scaled-up, with multiple rooms, whitewashed walls, and a sense of excitement in the air. DJs keep the party going late, cocktails come with flair, and the food menu pitches itself for groups – think Flinders Island squid with sticky soy and chilli, or flank steak with chimichurri. Why not do the double, and start with snacks and drinks at Randy’s before a dinner booking at Elvina? Or do Saturday lunch upstairs, then settle in at the bar downstairs after. Either way, if you like one, it’s all but a given you’ll like the other, so don’t skip poking your head in.
Who to takeCome past Randy’s any afternoon or evening and what will strike you is how unfailingly eclectic the crowd is – parents are sitting with their adult children, friends are swapping stories, couples are making eyes over a drink or two, and always, always a local or three (and inevitably a few more as their friends or family spy them from the street and pull up a chair). Take one friend, run into another and make some more along the way.
image credits: Steven Woodburn