NOW EXPERIENCING:Patsy’s
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Patsy’s

Tuesday: 12:00 – 10:00 PM
213 Franklin Street, Melbourne, VIC, 3004
Phone
(03) 9328 7667
Website
patsys.com.au
Instagram
@patsys_melbourne

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 22 Aug 2023

By
Michael Harden

A meat-free restaurant that pays as much attention to the quality of its drinks as it does to the excellence of its vegetables, Patsy’s is a good time even for die-hard carnivores.

The facade of Patsy's in Melbourne CBD
Why you goAt a time when restaurants routinely offer at least a couple of dishes for non-meat-eating customers, the idea of a purely vegetarian restaurant seems almost quaint. But quaint is the wrong word for what’s happening at Patsy’s. This cosy, thoughtfully decorated, two-storey restaurant near the Queen Victoria Market is the kind of place you want to go because it’s fun, not because of any particular label. The attention to detail across everything from food and drinks to decor and service is understandable when you know Patsy’s pedigree. Owners Matthew Guthrie, Clinton Trevisi and James Langley also have Mornington Peninsula restaurants Bistro Elba and Donna Maria. James’s first restaurant was the immensely popular Panama Dining Room in Fitzroy, so the comfortingly assured attitude comes from some pretty extensive experience. Add the fact that Patsy’s Euro-style dishes may have you re-evaluating your ideas about meat being an essential part of every meal and that the joint hosts a cocktail happy hour every evening, and you’re bound to agree that quaint really doesn’t fit the bill.
Why you stayA relaxed attitude combined with three distinct seating areas – street-front bar, dark and handsome upstairs dining room, small courtyard out the back – make Patsy’s a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place. The front room of the 1930s Spanish Mission-style building looks across a large grassy roundabout towards the Vic Market and is the ideal place for exploring the cocktail menu with its original concoctions sitting alongside lists of Martinis, Negronis and Sours. It’s easy to get settled, so even if you’ve only dropped by for a quick drink and snack, perhaps crumbed and fried green tomatoes with salmoriglio (a lemon, garlic, herb and olive oil sauce), be prepared for a change of mind. Chances are you’ll settle in and make a night of it. The alluring menu, the cosy vibe – exposed-brick walls, mismatched wooden furniture, timber ceilings, kindly lighting, charming flower arrangements – and a generous by-the-glass list matched with excellent glassware mount a powerful argument for staying a little bit longer.
A quiet corner at Patsy's in Melbourne
Mixing a cocktail at Patsy's in Melbourne
What drink to orderThe wine list at Patsy’s is almost entirely vegan (it’s noted when it isn’t), with every label sourced from makers who grow vines and make wine in environmentally friendly ways. The bulk of the list is made up of labels from Europe and Australia, and those wines range across the spectrum from classically made Champagne by small French houses to funky juice from makers in the Adelaide Hills. The floor staff display a solid and enthusiastic understanding of what they’re serving and can help you out if you don’t recognise any of the names listed. It’s a good idea to also pay attention to the vermouth list – it’s an all-Italian affair displaying an impressive spectrum of flavours accompanied by hilarious tasting notes.
What to pair it withTechnically, you could come to Patsy’s and not eat, but that would be a wasted opportunity. Patsy’s full-throated cheer for the joy of skilfully cooked vegetables should not be ignored, whether you’re talking house-made focaccia served with sweet slow-cooked confit garlic, or dark chocolate, rum and caramel cream pudding. But to be truly fulfilled, do not miss the savoury-sweet version of tarte Tatin, here made with shiny caramelised shallots, salty squacquerone cheese and excellent short pastry. Blissful.
Why we love itIt’s obvious from the moment you walk into Patsy’s that it’s a place put together with care and attention. That care and attention also extends to the vegetables used in the kitchen, the majority of which are grown specifically for the restaurant by two of the owners on their farm near Daylesford. That level of care is heart-warming and delicious, and why we keep coming back.
A night scene inside Melbourne bar Patsy's
Pouring Champagne at Patsy's in Melbourne
Regular’s tipThere’s a printed list of wines by the glass, but Patsy’s also offers patrons the opportunity to order a glass from any bottle on the longer list. There will be a couple of these bottles on the go at any time but, once they’re finished, anyone can choose what the next bottle will be. So, if you have an eye on that Italian fiano, say, but don’t have the funds to commit to a whole bottle, stay alert. It’s all about the timing.
Make it fancyPatsy’s wine list is democratically priced and keeps most bottles in the $60 to $100 range. But it also provides opportunity for a blow-out for those out celebrating or if you just feel like you deserve a $475 bottle of 2018 Elio Grasso Barolo or Jacquesson Cuvée 745 Champagne at $280. As they say in the classics, sometimes you just have to treat yourself.
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Michael HardenAfter 25 years writing about wine and food, Michael Harden is getting the hang of it.
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Drinks DirectoryHappy hourBarGood for groupsOutdoor areaDate nightMelbourneNon-alc OptionsMelbourne – CBDKiller cocktailsMeal and a bevAfter work drinksCasual catch-upTop notch wine listRestaurantVego Food Options
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