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Lilac Wine

Thursday: 3:00 – 11:00 PM
31 Stephenson Street, Cremorne, VIC, 3121
Phone
(03) 9973 2061
Website
lilacwinebar.com.au
Instagram
@lilacwinebar

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 19 Jul 2023

By
Michael Harden

Laid-back clubhouse vibes, DJs and a mirror ball conspire with Lilac’s serious commitment to excellent food, wine and service to make punters want to settle in for the party.

Looking inside Lilac Wine in Melbourne's Cremorne
Why you goNathan Tolman of Melbourne’s Mulberry Group has always been an expert at throwing a room together. At places like Hazel and Dessous (and his former businesses like Higher Ground) he has defined a particular Melbourne style – clean-lined, sophisticated and upmarket. But with this latest venture, Nathan is giving a bit of grit. For starters, Lilac Wine is in a graffitied warehouse in the backblocks of Cremorne and he’s made the most of the setting with its metal-framed windows, concrete floors and exposed-brick walls. Then there’s the mirror ball, the DJs and the second-hand furniture – leather couches in one area, wooden cabinets in another, rugs on the floor. Plus, there’s an open kitchen at the back of the large space that features a wood-fired oven and grill, an affinity for offal and house-made cured meats, plus a plating style that deliberately leans more rustic than artful. It’s an undoubtedly good-looking room – bar stools are upholstered in green leather, plants soften the space and the lighting is designed to make everybody look good – but the sophistication feels looser. It’s like Nathan has let his hair down a little and is ready to channel a DIY vibe and to bring the party. Though hardly grungy, the space, the food and the wine offering have an urban edge that feels like an expansion on what came before. It works a treat.
Why you stayLilac has the vibe of a house party that may have you hanging around for longer than intended. Who doesn’t love a good party? And, as with any good party venue, at Lilac you can hang out by the kitchen, in the outside courtyard, on the couches at the front, at the bar or by the fireplace. The best thing about this party, though, is that you’ll never have to end up drinking whatever’s been abandoned in the melting ice. The drinks list not only offers an impressive range of wines – more than 150 by the bottle and a couple of dozen by the glass – but also sake, vermouth, beer, cocktails, spirits and low- and no-alcohol options. The food will anchor you, too. The flexible menu offers a little something for everybody – snackers, diners, carnivores and vegans alike. Settle in.
The bar at Lilac Wine in Melbourne's Cremorne
Cocktails at Lilac Wine in Cremorne, Melbourne
What drink to orderThis is a wine bar with a predilection for wines from the “low-fi”, minimal-intervention end of the spectrum, which is the kind of statement that will have some people rejoicing and others heading for the nearest exit. But this is not a funky-for-the-sake-of-being-funky list. It includes beautifully made grower Champagne from the likes of Vincent Couche, elegant dry apera (like a fino sherry) from Rutherglen’s Pfeiffer and cabernet franc from France’s Loire Valley alongside “orange” vermentino from Heathcote and skin-contact muscatel from Chile. The emphasis is always on small producers and talented winemakers which, coupled with the exemplary wine knowledge of the staff, makes exploring the extensive by-the-glass list here a more-than-worthwhile option.
What to pair it withChef Kyle Nicol loves big flavour as well as French bistro-style dishes, especially if he can put his own spin on it. This is why, unless you do not eat animals, you must order the chicken-liver mousse éclair. This inspired item of snackery sees the smooth-as-silk mousse piped into light but sturdy pastry that’s then topped with an umami-powered black garlic and honey glaze. There are more than a few highlights on this ever-changing menu – the pickles being one of them – but these éclairs are guaranteed to put you in a good mood.
Two of the dishes served at Lilac Wine in Melbourne's Cremorne
A cocktail served at Lilac Wine in Melbourne
Why we love itIt’s not surprising, given Lilac’s pedigree, but it’s refreshing and exciting to see so many different aspects here given such careful attention. Take the cocktail list, for instance. This is a place that takes its wine-bar status seriously, so nearly all the signature cocktails include some kind of wine element, be it the Rutherglen tawny in the Tawny Buck mixed with bourbon and ginger beer, or the black-walnut vermouth in the Walnut Americano.
Regular’s tipJust to make you feel a little noble while you’re having a good time eating and drinking, it’s good to know that 10% of all Lilac’s profits are funnelled into the Mulberry Group’s Common Ground Project, a regenerative community farm and social enterprise promoting food security by creating fair access to healthy, locally grown food. It’s all about land, food, community and the future, and your cocktail is helping to fund it.
Don’t leave withoutGive the whisky list some attention. There are great examples of Australian, Scottish, Japanese, Irish and French whisky in the compact but thorough range.
A busy scene at Lilac Wine in Melbourne
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Michael HardenAfter 25 years writing about wine and food, Michael Harden is getting the hang of it.
Tags
Drinks DirectoryKiller cocktailsCasual catch-upNon-alc OptionsTop notch wine listBarAfter work drinksVego Food OptionsGood for groupsParty vibesOutdoor areaWheelchair accessibleMelbourneMelbourne – Inner EastDate nightGreat tunesMeal and a bevRestaurant
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