The Rome-inspired bar and restaurant that Sydney didn’t realise it needed, Palazzo Salato is the latest place to head for a sophisticated Italian fix of fine snacks and drinks.
You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d just stepped off the street in Manhattan or Rome as you enter Palazzo Salato, the impressive Italian-inspired venue from the team behind cult favourite bars Love, Tilly Devine, Dear Saint Éloise, and Ragazzi. It’s a true escape from the bustling CBD. Keen-eyed patrons will recognise this as the former home of the Redoak Boutique Beer Cafe, but the heritage-listed facade is about all that remains the same.
Charming and new, and deeply suave, Palazzo appears at first glance like the worldly yet brooding sibling who’d sooner enjoy a Negroni while reading Hemingway than post dreamy Instagram reels from the hills of Tuscany. But rest assured, while its polished looks may be a cut above the group’s other venues, this new Clarence Street hangout offers the same warm hospitality and deliciously approachable food and drink on which the Love Tilly group has built its reputation.
It’s all about the classics here and wine is most definitely the order of the day. The 600-bottle list spans the globe, with a clear focus on Italy and Australia, and the by-the-glass selection is impressive. There’s an entire page dedicated to pet nat, the sparkling of choice for many a natural-wine drinker, plus two pages of orange wine, but if either are uncomfortable territory, don’t let it deter you. Traditional wines are more than accounted for, so whether you’re craving a comforting Chianti, a savoury Sicilian rosé or even a delicious Adelaide Hills chardonnay, you’ll be taken care of.
Naturally, cocktails and spirits, including Italian bittersweet amaro liqueur, get a decent look-in, too. Thoughtfully compiled lists provide good choices if wine isn’t your thing – or even as you’re perusing the wine list and menu (a Palazzo Spritz or Highball Salato will help with the decision making).