NOW EXPERIENCING:Palazzo Salato

The Rome-inspired bar and restaurant that Sydney didn’t realise it needed, Palazzo Salato is the latest place to head for a sophisticated Italian fix of fine snacks and drinks.

A busy evening at Palazzo Salato
Why you go

You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d just stepped off the street in Manhattan or Rome as you enter Palazzo Salato, the impressive Italian-inspired venue from the team behind cult favourite bars Love, Tilly Devine, Dear Saint Éloise, and Ragazzi. It’s a true escape from the bustling CBD. Keen-eyed patrons will recognise this as the former home of the Redoak Boutique Beer Cafe, but the heritage-listed facade is about all that remains the same. 

Charming and new, and deeply suave, Palazzo appears at first glance like the worldly yet brooding sibling who’d sooner enjoy a Negroni while reading Hemingway than post dreamy Instagram reels from the hills of Tuscany. But rest assured, while its polished looks may be a cut above the group’s other venues, this new Clarence Street hangout offers the same warm hospitality and deliciously approachable food and drink on which the Love Tilly group has built its reputation.

Why you stayAn Italian trattoria is a casual restaurant generally a rank higher, in terms of formality, than a wine bar (or osteria, for extra Duolingo points). Palazzo Salato embraces both these concepts, resulting in a venue that is at once welcoming, warm and refined. You come here for sommelier Julie Barbero’s beautifully assembled wine list, and for chef Scott McComas-Williams’ Rome-inspired menu; you stay because it’s just really – yes, really – comfortable. Moody interiors, intriguing artwork and top-notch service seal the deal, so don’t act surprised if you feel inclined to linger for longer than you’d intended.
Interiors at Palazzo Salato
Cocktail served at Palazzo Salato
What drink to order

It’s all about the classics here and wine is most definitely the order of the day. The 600-bottle list spans the globe, with a clear focus on Italy and Australia, and the by-the-glass selection is impressive. There’s an entire page dedicated to pet nat, the sparkling of choice for many a natural-wine drinker, plus two pages of orange wine, but if either are uncomfortable territory, don’t let it deter you. Traditional wines are more than  accounted for, so whether you’re craving a comforting Chianti, a savoury Sicilian rosé or even a delicious Adelaide Hills chardonnay, you’ll be taken care of.

Naturally, cocktails and spirits, including Italian bittersweet amaro liqueur, get a decent look-in, too. Thoughtfully compiled lists provide good choices if wine isn’t your thing – or even as you’re perusing the wine list and menu (a Palazzo Spritz or Highball Salato will help with the decision making).

What to pair it withYou can make this a fancy stop for wine and a snack, or something a little more substantial; either way, the entire menu is designed to be teamed with the drinks offering. Small share plates of salty snacky things like artichokes with green tomato pesto or Italy’s creamy buffalo stracciatella cheese with anchovies make for fine pairings with either a glass of wine or a cocktail. Palazzo’s speciality, however, is the pasta menu, defined by interesting shapes and incredible flavours. Those in the gluten-free camp will rejoice in having options deliciously on par with the regular dishes.
A plate of pasta at Palazzo Salato
Make it fancyIf you can, you probably should. That is, order the 850-gram rib-eye and share it with your favourite people. One of central Italy’s top food experiences is the custom of ordering a high-quality, perfectly seared steak and pulling the cork on a fine red; sometimes, replication is as good as a holiday. To make it truly authentic, call for a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino – the king of sangiovese, grown on the hillsides of southern Tuscany.
Diners enjoying Palazzo Salato
Who to takeLet’s face it: this is a venue to impress. You can impress yourself by booking a spot for one at the bar for some deep-seated culinary self-care. But if company is more your thing (fair enough), Palazzo should be on the bucket-list for your loved one, your best friends, or your work husband/wife. First date? Absolutely! We just hope it works out because chances are you’ll already be planning your return visit.
image credits: Nikki To