Bringing a bistro vibe to North Hobart, this intimate neighbourhood restaurant conjures European-inspired dishes from prime local produce to match a smart list of natural-leaning wines.
The tight drinks list leans towards minimal-intervention wines, with well-considered showings from Tasmania and Europe. On the food front, Matt’s equally concise single-page menu changes daily, but will always feature a couple of pasta dishes and Gildas, Spain’s punchy skewers of olives, piquillo peppers, anchovies and (in this case) octopus.
Cocktails first is a creed we can get behind. On arrival, you’re greeted with a choice of two or three aperitivi to start – perhaps a Negroni or a Spritz. If cocktails aren’t your bag, limber up with a pastis, perhaps, France’s favourite anise-flavoured spirit, or Spring Bay gin from Tasmania’s east coast. Boag’s XXX Ale from Launceston is the solitary beer on offer.
Ogee manager and self-taught sommelier Rachelle Guastella assembles her favourites on the tight wine list largely from Tasmania, Italy and France. Tassie standouts include chardonnay from Utzinger Wines in the Tamar Valley, and the Hughes & Hughes Rosé, a blend of merlot, syrah and tempranillo grapes grown in the Coal River and Derwent valley. And this is one of the few places you can try Al’s Merlot, the work of Sonny’s sommelier Al Robertson. Europe, meanwhile, is represented by the lo-fi likes of the Louis Terral Marguerite Gamay by a young French producer.
A clutch of digestives round off the drinks list, including Killara Bush Liqueur made with Tasmanian pepperberries, plus French Armagnac, and tawny port from (yes) Portugal.
The menu is largely designed to share, though those salty Gildas are strictly for solo enjoyment. Warm sourdough with sea-urchin butter is another constant among the starters, which might also include cured meats or steak tartare made with Huon Valley beef and served with dauphinoise potatoes, aka fried pillows of creamy mash.
White asparagus – a labour of love by the grower according to the staff – come with a velvety mussel velouté sauce, toasted buckwheat for texture and peppery wasabi leaves direct from the chef’s own garden.
Pasta dishes, the centrepiece of the menu, could be cappellacci parcels filled with mozzarella cheese and served with chilli oil, or trofie twists with prawns and basil. Meatier main courses might include veal schnitzel or Spanish mackerel with olive sauce.
The sweet end of the deal is sealed with rich brioche ice-cream, delivered to the table straight from the churn.
Ogee is walk-ins only, so expect a queue. Tables can turn over quickly, though, with some patrons there just for a quick drink and bite, and the Crescent Hotel over the road is a handy place to wait your turn.
Ogee is the perfect spot for an intimate evening out, whether with a date or friends. The music (vinyl only) is kept low-key, allowing conversation to flow. With tables for two or four only, it’s not a place for larger groups.
