NOW EXPERIENCING:Noir

Noir is the new black. Unassuming yet stylish and perfect for all occasions, you’ll find a juicy mix of off-the-wall, and on-the-wall wines here, plus artful, well-curated snacks.

Why you goEveryone loves a good neighbourhood wine bar and it’s something Paddington has lacked – until now. Noir is an unassuming yet quietly stylish joint, with a friendly, neighbourly feel. It’s a little like those bars you might stumble on in Paris, if you’re lucky. But this is definitely a Brissie-made place and it’s cleverly built to make the best of the city’s subtropical weather. Housed in a heritage terrace, Noir has a smart design that combines the best of the old building’s personality – original brick walls, timber floors – with newer elements such as timber battens and massive fold-back windows to let in the breezes. Snacks are simple but sourced with the same eye for quality as the tasty drinks on pour. Every neighbourhood should have a Noir. 
Why you stay

This is a regulars’ bar, and Paddo locals are an interesting crew so it makes for a lively mix of punters. Expect groups of friends catching up, and linen-clad customers loudly greeting each other – all of which could make newcomers feel a little left-out occasionally, but the chatty floor staff ensure no one feels on the outer for long. It’s a versatile bar. Despite its relatively snug dimensions, it has a surprising number of seating options – all with a slightly different vibe. Want to sit on the footpath and hail passers-by? Head to the comfortable blond-timber chairs and tables. Tucked just around the corner is another alfresco area where you’ll find timber banquettes beneath a handy retractable roof. Inside, you can either go up a level to a cool mezzanine area, or down into a bolthole space (where you’ll also find the wine cellar). Then there’s the J-shaped bar at street level along with several high tables, and a small high bar along the street-front fold-back window. Wherever you snag a seat, sommelier John Little is not one to hide behind the bar. He’ll be beside your table before long, suggesting something tasty to pop in that slender-stemmed wineglass.

 

What drink to order

You know a place is fair dinkum about its wines when, instead of shelves full of spirits, there’s an array of interesting wine bottles hanging on the wall. There’s a good blend of new-school drops and well-loved classics, but bottle numbers are limited and ever-changing, so don’t expect to find exactly the same drop you enjoyed the last time you came. On the upside, that means there’s always something new and unexpected to explore. There’s no online list either, so take the time to study it when you arrive – it’s worth it. A Stargazer riesling from Tasmania is a fine place to start. Keen to delve into rarer territory? Try a grenache blanc from Spain, or perhaps La Violetta’s latest Loosie Ranga – a rich drop with floral gewürztraminer. There are sparkling options for every palate, too, such as a King Valley prosecco from Butterfly Kisses, or splash out on Louis Roederer’s new fizz, Collection 242. Cocktail lovers can request the classics, or give one of the handful of house mixes a spin – perhaps the We’re No Angels, a blend of Woodford Reserve bourbon and yellow Chartreuse enriched with smoked honey.

 

Why to pair withIt’s rare to find a bar that takes the same care in sourcing snacks as it does in tracking down drink. At Noir, the sourdough is made by local baker Riser, the cultured butter comes from Pepe Saya, and the baguettes are from Indie Treats. The plates rely on simple assembly skills, but the niceties are observed and everything looks as good as it tastes. A ripe brie, runny and full of good mushroom flavour, comes with a little bunch of dried muscatel grapes and slices of chewy, flavoursome dried pear with good crackers alongside. The dramatic squid-ink salami is served with lime-green guindilla peppers and more muscatels, while porky capocollo slices are accessorised with smoked garlic, sauerkraut and labne.  
Make it fancyFor a few dollars more than the general wine list, you can nab a glass from a handful of special bottles offered thanks to the Coravin wine-preservation system. There’s an opportunity to try the likes of Castagna’s Sauvage shiraz, perhaps, a Leko pinot noir from the Adelaide Hills, or Latta’s Presence Grenache, a light red from Victoria.
Who to takeThis is a super-adaptable little spot and, depending where you sit, you can engineer a different experience. Meeting pals? Come early and spread out in the side alfresco area. On a date? There’s plenty to look at and chat about if you’re sitting at the high bar that runs along the front window.