NOW EXPERIENCING:Lucia

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 02 Jul 2024

By
Larissa Dubecki


Staff at the bar in Lucia, Melbourne

You can settle in for a multi-course meal with matched wines here, or head to the bar for a drinks list very much attuned to the refreshment needs of a broad cross-section of people.

The entrance to Lucia in South Melbourne
Why you go

Lucia isn’t exactly easy to find. Hiding behind filmy curtains on the ground floor of a new office block in South Melbourne’s meaner streets, it might have you interrogating the Uber driver over the accuracy of their GPS. But once you’ve located the silently swishing automatic doors (gotta love that touch) it reveals a self-sustaining universe of luxe. The pale-on-pale room with its broad curving booths feels a bit like a very expensive cruise ship, in the best possible way. And the crowd responds accordingly, traipsing in dressed in their designer finery. 

Choice awaits. You can settle in for a multi-course meal with matched wines, but our advice is to head left to the bar. That’s where you’ll find a glass-fronted seafood bar setting the tone for a glamorous ode to the good life.

What drink to order Now, here’s a list very much attuned to the refreshment needs of a broad cross-section of people. Bubbles your thing? They’re pouring Pol Roger by the glass, bless them, although it’s eminently worthwhile to take the Italian route and opt for the toasty Ferrari Trento brut (and take comfort in the fact you have the option to upsize to a $1200 bottle of Dom Pérignon “Lady Gaga” limited-edition rosé). A seriously impressive, 400 bottle-strong wine list matches its KPIs to the food. Roaming around France, Italy and Australia, its big reds go blow for blow between Burgundy, Barolo and Barossa shiraz, this last sending in its brilliant emissary, Henschke’s Hill of Grace, to stand up to the European heavy-hitters. The very on-trend offering of two-sip Martinis and Negronis is an immense kindness to drivers, while a cute line in Spritzes will deposit you in Positano in late July. An Italian-leaning beer list rounds things out nicely.
The feature bar inside Lucia, South Melbourne
Share plates and drinks at Lucia, South Melbourne
What to pair it withIs it possible to sit before a display of fat Mooloolaba king prawns without ordering them? On this evidence, the answer is no – and the kitchen does these beauties justice with a disco-era cocktail sauce and cos lettuce for going the DIY route. A lobster “taco” gets creative, definitionally speaking, with its thin daikon sheet wrapping, while pristine Sydney rock oysters get along famously with their Campari-spiked vinaigrette. If you’re craving carbs, the velvety Cantabrian anchovy on toasted focaccia with a rich-giving sprinkle of egg yolk is a comfort-heavy winner.
Why we love it A venue that puts serious thought into its staff uniforms is A-okay with us. Lucia decks out its crew members in a pale linen blazer with a white tee, black pants and sneakers, and the overall effect is so chic we’re thinking of applying for a job there ourselves. The latest addition to the restaurant group that includes Baia di Vino in Sandringham and Riserva Wine Bar in Malvern puts just as much effort into staff training, which means pretty much everyone on the floor can help steer you around the drinks list. They’re happy to let you try before you buy, too; their offering of small tastes is the height of civility. 
The decor at Lucia in South Melbourne
The 25-seat private dining room at Lucia in Melbourne
Make it fancy It’s disturbingly easy to put on the Ritz here (you read the bit about the Dom Pérignon, right?), but next time you have a special occasion to celebrate, go one further by locking in the 25-seat private dining room. The basement “vault” has a curved timber ceiling and a marble bar, and would make a great setting for a birthday ending in a zero.
Who to take The Tinder date at the bar mightn’t have been going so well (memo to the overconfident fellow in the blue blazer: next time don’t spend half an hour talking about your Gold Coast real estate deals), but Lucia is the perfect venue for date number three. That’s the one where you’ve decided the relationship has legs and you really want to impress someone who’s well on their way to becoming someone special.