NOW EXPERIENCING:Lokal
Thursday: 5:00 – 10:00 PM
Phone
No phone
Website
lokalwine.com.au
Instagram
@lokal_wine

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 22 Aug 2023

By
David Matthews


With natural wines, vermouth on ice, killer snacks and a breezy outlook, pocket-sized Lokal is punching well above its weight in a forgotten slice of Surry Hills.

The duo behind Lokal in Sydney
Why you goThe reliable regular. The neighbourhood haunt. The local legend. There are many names for that magical spot we all wish we had up the road – the one you can drop into unannounced that’s primed and ready with a cool drink at the ready and a stool with your name on it. For the top end of Surry Hills, since it opened in 2022, that place has been Lokal. Housed in a warm corner site on the small strip of businesses near The Cricketers Arms in Surry Hills, this is a bar where pretension never makes it past the front step, and the welcome is as warm as the hospitality. Nab a spot at one of its 20 seats, and count on co-owner Patrick Frawley – a somm and drinks guy with serious chops from time working in Hong Kong and London – to keep a proper handle on what’s in the glass. Then pair it with punchy snacks from a succinct menu overseen by co-owner Nelson Cramp (formerly of pumping Bondi standby Porch and Parlour). Lokal’s success lies in its tone, which is light, breezy and understated, but always backed by skill, knowledge and an appetite for good times with prog-rock wines, vermouth on ice and clever cocktails leading the way.
Why you stay

Set on a corner and painted an understated black, Lokal is easy to miss, but once you spot it, the details take over. It’s the warm glow coming from the interior, the breezy bifolds opening onto a side street in warm weather, the palette of polished concrete and Tasmanian ash. It’s the corner kitchen, the shelves lined with pickles, spirits and Italy’s amaro liqueurs, the bar set with just a few stools, the handmade ceramics. Everything here feels intimate, personal, and connected to the neighbourhood, right down to the bicycle-only parking spots just outside. In summer, the team sets tables on the footpath, but whatever the season, Patrick’s sense of hospitality always shines through. 

His wine list, while not enormous, packs plenty of punch, and you can count on him being across the producers – if he hasn’t visited the maker, he’ll have picked their wine because he likes to drink it, and will happily talk you through it, pour you a taste, and help you find your match. Same goes for vermouth, which comes with the option of added soda, while cocktails keep it simple and on trend with the likes of Martinis and Spritzes on rotation. In short, this is a place where every facet has been given its due, and the crowd – mostly young Surry Hills urbanites who linger long into the evening – are here for it.

The entrance to Sydney wine bar Lokal
Drinks served at Lokal
What drink to orderStart with a Lokal Spritz, which encompasses almost everything about the place in one glass. The blend of vermouths, most notably Summer Flowers from Saison, a fresh small-batch expression made by Dave Verheul, chef at Melbourne’s legendary wine bar Embla, is topped up with natural sparkling in place of the usual prosecco, bringing spirit and extra freshness to a tried-and-true classic. If it’s wine you’re drinking, expect drops from cult makers in the natural world, with an emphasis on new-wave Australian producers along with fashionable picks from Italy, France and even Georgia. Keen to try a chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, but with a little skin contact and an orange hue? Lokal’s the place. If you fancy a chilled red, flip through the carte and find a whole page of them, then pick something from the Goldilocks section for something not too heavy or not too light. Your wish, their command.
What to pair it withThis is a menu geared for snacking, but a couple of bigger plates make turning it into a meal a simple prospect. Start with a plate of Merimbula oysters, offered by the single bivalve, or steer towards cheese, a mix of local and international, and cured meats headlined by French-style sausage made by LP’s Quality Meats. For something bigger, the potato scallops topped with flakes of smoked rainbow trout are always a good call, as are the crisp-roasted potatoes to dip into smoked chipotle-chilli rémoulade sauce. The non-negotiable, though, is the fried chicken, craggy and crisp, dripping with spicy sauce and plated with refreshing coleslaw. Expect it to appear in one guise or another, and mark it down as a must-order.
Various dishes at Lokal in Sydney
Why we love itThis part of Surry Hills has been under-appreciated for too long, but with Lokal there’s now a complete mini precinct punching well above its weight. There’s the overhaul at The Cricketers Arms giving new energy to the strip, the killer Korean menu at Sáng by Mabasa holding strong, and the modern Indian menu at Don’t Tell Aunty drawing visitors. Lokal adds a wine bar to match them, which serves as a place to drop into before or after a meal, or to make a destination in itself. Call it a revival, and a new chapter for the area.
Looking inside at Lokal in Sydney's Surry Hills
Who to takeLokal says it all in the name – this is a place for the neighbourhood where you can front up after work, after soccer, on a date, before dinner, for a nightcap or at any time or for any occasion between. But this is a destination, too. It’s a spot to remind us of what we all look for in that wine bar up the road, which at its core starts with a warm welcome and follows through with the hospitality, cracking drinks and cooking to match.
Regular’s tipFollow Lokal’s Instagram. This isn’t an account run by an agency, but a personal view into the business, with the odd shot of Alfie the bordoodle making the feed (Lokal is proudly pet-friendly) along with posts of whatever exciting new drop Patrick has got his hands on. It could be a 100% gamay rosé from Beaujolais, for instance, or a skinsy sauvignon blanc from Mendoza in Argentina ready and waiting for you when you roll up.