NOW EXPERIENCING:Caravin

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 21 Feb 2024

By
Matty Hirsch


Guests at Caravin, a wine bar in Potts Point, Sydney

Seldom do cosy neighbourhood wine bars hit as many high notes – surefire snacks, a hit list of wines – as this understated, Euro-tinged bolthole in Sydney’s inner east.

Inside Caravin in Sydney
Why you go Wine bars are everywhere in Sydney, and they only seem to be getting fancier and more like fully fledged restaurants. So, when a newbie comes along that’s decidedly relaxed but still fuelled by interesting drinks, smart cooking and sharp service, it can feel like a low-key revelation. Enter Caravin, a snug 30-seater shoehorned into a glorified Art Deco cupboard of a space steeped in candlelight and the flame-tinted glow of a vintage spiral chandelier. Within just a few months of opening in 2023, it already had that “been here forever” sensibility, probably owing to the fact it’s familiar territory for co-owners Greg Bampton and Phil Stenvall. The duo’s first joint venture, the now-closed Bar Suze, quickly cultivated a loyal fanbase for a similarly understated wine-and-small-plates template with a modern Scandinavian lilt. This time they’re taking their cues from Paris and its rising tide of teeny wine bars steered by savvy young operators who pop the corks on what they like to drink and cook the food they like to eat. Chances are you’ll probably like it, too. 
What drink to order At almost 100 bottles strong, with some 20 options by the glass, Greg’s wine list crackles with versatility and excitement, yet never feels overwhelming. Ease in with a pour of Henri Champliau’s Crémant de Bourgogne – crisp and creamy like top-end Champagne but half the price – and take your time poring over the rest of the list. If you’re still on the fence about natural wines, there’s familiar comfort to be found in bell-ring bright German riesling, bone-dry French rosé and sturdy South Australian shiraz. If you’d rather ride the razor edge, you can lose yourself in the floral perfume of a biodynamic skin-contact xarel-lo blend from Spain that’s spent eight days on skins, or a crunchy chilled grenache from century-old vines in southern France with no preservatives. Bottom line? Everyone’s a winner.
Glasses of wine and a cocktail at Caravin in Sydney
Oysters served up at Sydney's Caravin
What to pair it with It’s quite easy to give yourself over to the foolproof snacks – some olives and oysters with a finely tuned apple-jalapeño chilli mignonette dressing, say, or a crusty baguette with sesame butter, cured meats and Comté cheese. The one you really need on your table, however, has to be the crab toast: a thick spread of creamy, herb-flecked crabmeat on a crisp-fried wheel of white bread, capped with a spoonful of trout roe. Larger plates tilt more heavily towards meat and seafood territory, but a smoky and surprisingly meaty beetroot tartare proves the kitchen rocks it in the plant-based department, too. Don’t get too attached to any one thing, however – things change weekly, sometimes even daily, so you’ve always got a reason to return.
Why we love itThis is yet another very worthy addition to Potts Point, a neighbourhood chock-full of excellent, destination-worthy spots. But whereas other nearby establishments in its class lean somewhat more splashy and scene-y, Caravin is geared as much to midweek nightcaps as celebratory nights out. Phill and Greg know their audience, understand the limits of the tiny space and still serve up an experience that feels abundant and affordable, allowing you to play it as it lays.
Regular’s tipIt may be a wine bar, but don’t sleep on the cocktails. Not only do these guys know their way around the classic likes of Martinis and Negronis (only $12 between 4:30pm and 5:30pm on Thursdays and Fridays), but they also shake up some mean house specials – a bright, balanced gin and pink grapefruit cooler, for instance, spiked with rhubarb liqueur. And if you’re looking for a slightly more secluded experience away from all the action, be sure to request one of the two tucked-away tables upstairs.
Who to take Plainly put, Caravin isn’t built for big groups, and it’s the intimacy of the place that really makes it sparkle. So, bring along one other person, or two at the most, preferably with a palate for natural wines. It pays to know that you’ll be in close proximity to your neighbours, so if you suffer from the first-date jitters or need to have a deep-and-meaningful, it’s probably best you save it for somewhere you can be more discreet.
The subtle signage at Sydney's Caravin